G650GS - il-ħmar

[A_morti]

And stilllll the noise was there.

In the end I doused the shock with silicon spray. Whether the plastic guard for the chrome shaft was rubbing on something, or whether the spring was rubbing on something as it compressed (ofc the coils tighten as they compress, so could be on the mounting surfaces?) that finally cured the noise!

My box of bits arrived from Germany today, so I set about fitting the replacement airbox.
As part of that I had planned to take off the throttle body for a clean, as it's had oil caking on it for a while. As far as I can tell that's due to the previous owner over-filling the oil. Excess oil makes its way into the airbox through the crankcase venting system, and from there any which doesn't pool in the airbox goes out through the engine The broken and therefore loose-fitting airbox had (I guess) let some of that get to the outside of the throttle body, and it was thick with it. No pics unfortunately, but hopefully you can imagine a dirty Del Orto throttle body and a shiny one.

I also removed the IACV. Before:

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After:

IAC after.jpg (177.19 KiB) Viewed 812 times

I had wanted to replace the plugs but a) I only have 14mm and 19mm long plug sockets and b) Gordon's sold me plugs for the F"650" twin instead of the G650 single. So, that goes back on the list of "some day". Not urgent though, as the bike really runs great already.

[A_morti]

And here's the fix (bodge) for the melted coil plugs.
Two different methods, depending how fucked the coil is.

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cable ties2.jpg (152.13 KiB) Viewed 810 times

[A_morti]

Next job while the tank and side panels were off to change the airbox: fit LED indicators.
Front has OEM BMW LED indicators, rear still has OEM halogen indicators.



I'll try to get a direct left/right comparison when I do the rear ones tomorrow with Jules, who also has a LED relay for me. The flash rate is fine on hazards, but too fast on normal indicators.
Hopefully I can also get the clutch plates and springs done tomorrow.

[A_morti]

You sir, have the patience of a saint. It would have been the subject of an insurance claim months ago had it been mine...

Or, I'm stubborn as a mule.

PS: Don't tell the bike, but I'm actually starting to like it. There's something about getting your hands dirty with a bike, which really helps with bonding with it. Never had either of those experiences with my CB300R, and its in line to be sold.

[A_morti]

Bike all back together, I gave it a little gift of jewellery.

BMW didn't fit a master cylinder guard from the factory.

without heel guard.jpg (222.94 KiB) Viewed 800 times

Due to that, the previous owners' boots have worn away at the little rubber boot on the master cylinder. I guess I'll eventually get to rebuild it for that reason, but anyway the stock part from a 1200GS fits and looks the part. I even used some spare bolts from the LED indicators to fit it, they are newer-looking, have a bigger/nicer head, and a torx fitting.

with heel guard.jpg (204.12 KiB) Viewed 800 times

[A_morti]

There was a minute back there where I didn't think it would make this milestone, but it did, and I even resisted pushing it into the sea.

IMG-20230308-WA0002.jpg (304.76 KiB) Viewed 751 times

[Bustaspoke]

There was a minute back there where I didn't think it would make this milestone, but it did, and I even resisted pushing it into the sea.

When my XT600 expired at the Classic TT I managed to get a lift in a van & parked it on the quay at Douglas for a couple of days until the ferry sailed.I told the security guards to feel feel to push it off the quay if it got in the way ...

[A_morti]

In the meantime I also fitted the rear LED indicators, LED relay, and changed the taillight's rubber mounting bushings.
I had to drill a hole in the rear tray from 8 out to 10 (I think) to fit the later style indicators, the relay needed a little "temporary" pigtail making up, the rubber bushings went right in without issue and really solved the slack.

Only thing left to do from the box of bits Chris sent me is to change out the clutch plates and springs. I just haven't found/made the time for that yet Maybe I can get to that this weekend, but it's not so urgent as the clutch only slips if you try really hard to make it.

Apart from replacing the bent left footpeg hanger, I don't think it needs anything else, for now at least

Maybe I'll make room in the budget to replace the missing BMW badge, perhaps change out the handlebar grips and gear pedal rubbers. After that I may treat it to some progressive fork springs, but then it's just a case of riding the mule

[A_morti]

Changed the clutch plates and springs last night. I've only test ridden it around the underground parking, but first impressions are that it seems to have fixed the clutch drag even though the old parts didn't have any obvious damage and the new stack isn't any thicker than the old.

I'd be interested in any theories about why that's worked, because otherwise it'll drive me nuts not knowing.

[DefTrap]

Too many variables with worn or damaged clutches to be that bothered about really?

[Taipan]

Springs were goosed?

[A_morti]

I put EBC "+10%" springs in there so I guess any direct comparison is pointless, but the ones which came out were all still spring shaped and spring-y. They had the remnants of some green paint on them, don't know if that might suggest they had already been changed?

[A_morti]

If I had to guess they maybe looked like these ones.
https://newbonneville.com/shop/barnett- ... eedmaster/

Although, how could bad springs cause clutch drag?

[Taipan]

I put EBC "+10%" springs in there so I guess any direct comparison is pointless, but the ones which came out were all still spring shaped and spring-y. They had the remnants of some green paint on them, don't know if that might suggest they had already been changed?

Haven't changed a clutch in over 20 years, but IIRC there used to be a measurable free length for clutch springs? Dunno if its the same today though?

[A_morti]

I guess it's same, but if they'd compressed I imagine it would cause slip rather than drag

[A_morti]

At this point, this is more of a blog post so that anyone who's still reading can feel better about their own bikes

Today was about changing spark plugs. Original plugs are NGK DR8EB. They have a 12mm thread and take an 18mm hex. I couldn't find any on this entire island and was trying not to get them mail order, since everything has to have international shipping added. So one of the local shops looked up the Champion equivalent, 8810. Same specs except it takes a 16mm hex.

Changing plugs on the 650GS is always a shit job, because unless you deliberately or by luck bought a thin-walled plug socket, it won't fit through the coil bracket. So you have to sneak the socket around each plug and put an extension through from the top, turn it out maybe 2-3 turns, remove the socket before it gets trapped between the plug and the coil bracket, then get them each out the rest of the way by using your fingers. The 16mm socket, however, goes right in from the top so the job is way easier and less irritating.

No idea how it is with the OEM on board plug tool as my bike didn't come with that. It looks to be the usual sheet metal tube with a hex squished at the bottom and two holes through the top, so I guess it's also pretty miserable to use it a quarter turn at a time while trying not to scratch the engine paint.

The specified gap is 0.6mm-0.7mm. I have feeler gauges in inches so I went for the lower end at 24/1000. The plugs coming out were at 31 and 39 thousandths.

So, with that job done I went on a test ride. Bike idles nicer and picks up from idle better. It also leaks oil over the inside of the fairing if you forget to tighten the oil fill cap. Sometimes it seems as though I like making work for myself.

Also I noticed the new rear bolt-in subframe bit already has a hairline crack, and decided to actually investigate. Turns out the top box rack has been bent at some point, so it's been levering against that bit of frame. I did wonder before why it was so hard to get it all lined up. Bent it back now, so hopefully the cracks won't get any bigger now.

[Rockburner]

Drill a hole at the end of the crack, it'll stop it propogating any further

[A_morti]

Drill a hole at the end of the crack, it'll stop it propogating any further

Good tip, I'll do that. Didn't think of it at the time, not only a little bit due to having had enough of looking at the bike for that day.

I guess next step after that is have it ground to a V and welded back up.

[A_morti]

Normally the headlamp should come on with the ignition, then be extinguished while the engine cranks. The "load relief relay" takes care of this function.

Yesterday morning, the headlamp didn't come on with the ignition, did stay off while it cranked, and it, the horn, and the high beam only joined the party a couple of minutes later. Same on the way home.

Relays back out, cleaned again including this time some paper wetted with contact cleaner between the points, and it's working again.

I've ordered some used Bosch relays out of a Toyota. They won't click into the BMW's fusebox, but still, I'm about done with the crappy Tyco relays BMW specced for this bike.

[DefTrap]

I don't think I've ever heard anyone having quite so much trouble with a bike (not since the stories of dreadful 70s knackers I used to read about in the Used Bike Guide anyway)