You... The clutch lever pivot bolt she told you not to worry about

- IMG-20230128-WA0010.jpeg (827.71 KiB) Viewed 1218 times
BMW uses a 6mm pivot bolt with M5 threads on the bottom. The idea is that when you tighten the bolt, the nut stops at exactly the right height for your lever to move freely. It should also pinch the perch exactly tight enough so the lever moves on the pivot, instead of the pivot moving in the perch and wearing the hole bigger. The nyloc nut has sole responsibility for the lever not leaving the chat. This all is a bad idea from the get go.
On my bike the pattern (copy) lever must be very slightly thicker than OEM, because it would work fine unless I tightened the bolt down, then the lever pinched stiff. I could've sanded the lever thinner, but the design of this bolt is bad engineering and I don't like it. Every bike I ever had before, the pivot threads into the perch and there's a jam nut on the bottom. This gives you belt and braces retention of that bolt, and ensures the lever moves on the boot, not the bolt in the perch. Also, 6mm is too small for the pivot bolt, it will wear the hole oval in no time especially as there's no bushing in there.
So, I dug out an m8 stainless steel Allen bolt, cut extra threads to exactly the right length so the bolt stops before it pinches the perch, drilled the lever and the perch top hope to 8mm and threaded the bottom hole to m8.
Results - it certainly didn't snap back like this before.