Do fuel stabilizers work

[Mr Moofo]

My old 900 Speed triple seems to have becoem sensitive to petrol going off. It has been an issue - but gummed up the carbs last winter. Having spent enough I want to protect against that happening.
There is no easy way of draining the 3 carbs, other than take the vacuum pipe off and run the carbs until they are empty. WHich means body work off, tank off etc
The other suggestion is rin 2 lt of Aspen fuel through it.

As I use only Esso SuperUnleaded, does something like Sta-Bil help with stopping fuel go off - or is it snake oil?

Thanks

[MrLongbeard]

I use it, does it work? dunno but I'd sooner gamble that it does than not use it

[mangocrazy]

I'd say a qualified yes, they do work, but it all depends how long you leave them I think. I'd say 6 months is tops, and preferably less. I'd be draining the tank and putting in a couple of litres of Aspen fuel AND use a fuel stabiliser.

It's a bit poor that the Speedy doesn't have drain plugs on the carbs. When leaving the VFR over winter at the French gaff I put fuel stabiliser in the tank, take the old girl for a short run, then drain the carbs using the screws thoughtfully provided by Mr Honda, even if they are an absolute pain to get at.

The Falco just gets fuel stabiliser in the tank and a short run and it's always been fine, but there is far less to gum up on a fuel-injected bike I guess.

[Tomcat]

I put my lad's SV650 back on the road last month after 6 years layup. Sure enough it wouldn't idle on one of the cylinders. Took the carbs off, green inside. One emulsion tube appeared to have been butchered by a previous owner, which didn't help so I had to source a secondhand one. Runs great now after a little ultrasonic clean. But I've laid bikes up with E5 for winter periods before no problems. I just wouldn't want to use any ethanol additive fuel for any longer layups. On the blade I took it on a ride to run it dry then put in some Aspen to get home. On the LC I drained the tank, started it to run the carbs dry on the stand, then chucked in some Aspen when it coughed to a stop.

[mangocrazy]

On the LC I drained the tank, started it to run the carbs dry on the stand, then chucked in some Aspen when it coughed to a stop.

LCs have drain screws on the carbs and they drain the carbs completely (with the fuel tap set to off, obvs). Running the engine until it coughs to a halt only partially drains the carb(s).

[Skub]

I missed this first time around.

I use Sta-Bil in the triples. To cut a long story short and offer some anecdotal advice,I believe regular use of the bikes and the additive keep them running well with no pissy leaks,or rough running.

I wouldn't be absolutely certain which of those two things is the ticket,or is it even both?

[mangocrazy]

I missed this first time around.

I use Sta-Bil in the triples. To cut a long story short and offer some anecdotal advice,I believe regular use of the bikes and the additive keep them running well with no pissy leaks,or rough running.

I wouldn't be absolutely certain which of those two things is the ticket,or is it even both?

Probably a bit of both... The best thing is to use them regularly, but in our climate that may well not be possible over winter - which is where the Sta-bil comes in.

The only two carbed bikes I still have are the LC and the VFR and fortunately both have drain screws on the carbs. But I still use fuel stabiliser as belt and braces. If nothing else it should stop the ethanol-laced fuel in the tank going off so quickly.

[Mr Moofo]

I am using Sta-bil. And it seems to work

[roadster]

First essential is to use E5 in everything. For my three 1970's machines, which in all honesty I don't ride very far or very often, and my petrol mower, I use a few drops of some stuff called Ethanol Shield which is often sold in garden centres and is not too expensive if bought on-line.

Starting is excellent so far and carb internals do look cleaner. I have had to replace a rubber fuel line on the mower but that could have been damaged before I started using the additive.