"Understeering" on a motorbike

[mangocrazy]

Interestingly, I found the rebound setting (the mount is tucked up behind the swing arm). I initially thought in had just 4 "clicks" - but in fact it has 18.
And it was fully open - so maximum rebound

Are you sure? Fully open is minimum rebound on all bikes I've known. The accepted way of setting clickers is to wind it all the way in (clockwise) to fully closed then wind out the required number of clicks/turns.

[Mr Moofo]

Interestingly, I found the rebound setting (the mount is tucked up behind the swing arm). I initially thought in had just 4 "clicks" - but in fact it has 18.
And it was fully open - so maximum rebound

Are you sure? Fully open is minimum rebound on all bikes I've known. The accepted way of setting clickers is to wind it all the way in (clockwise) to fully closed then wind out the required number of clicks/turns.

Sorry - bad explaination - fully clockwise - so fast rebound ( unless I have it wring from the Nitron manual). Off to check again

[A_morti]

As Mango says, usually turned all the way in (clockwise) would fully close the needle valve. This would mean fully stiff damping. I guess there's a small chance yours is different, but seems unlikely due to that's how the mechanism works.

If you're unsure, you should easily be able to tell the difference between fully hard and fully soft just by bouncing the rear of the bike up and down. Keep in mind it may not be an immediate change, it may take a few bounces for oil to reach the relevant part of the circuit.

[singlesman]

It's too light on the front - and u can shorten the wheelbase. Drop the front forks in their yokes @ approx 2mm invervals and see how she turns - max @ 6mm. It'll put more weight on the front - better grip and make it turn quicker. You could raise the rear ride height - therefore changing the geomentary putting more weight on the front but I'd put everything to std first / drop the forks and take it 1 stage at a time.

So, as @Alan PBTD was alluding to, light on the front end, but probably caused by maximum rebound on the rear, holding the back of the bike down in relation to the front?

[Le_Fromage_Grande]

Interestingly, I found the rebound setting (the mount is tucked up behind the swing arm). I initially thought in had just 4 "clicks" - but in fact it has 18.
And it was fully open - so maximum rebound

Are you sure? Fully open is minimum rebound on all bikes I've known. The accepted way of setting clickers is to wind it all the way in (clockwise) to fully closed then wind out the required number of clicks/turns.

Sorry - bad explaination - fully clockwise - so fast rebound ( unless I have it wring from the Nitron manual). Off to check again

Depends which way you're looking at the shock

[Mr Moofo]

Are you sure? Fully open is minimum rebound on all bikes I've known. The accepted way of setting clickers is to wind it all the way in (clockwise) to fully closed then wind out the required number of clicks/turns.

Sorry - bad explaination - fully clockwise - so fast rebound ( unless I have it wring from the Nitron manual). Off to check again

Depends which way you're looking at the shock

or the manual .... it's now set mid way - and is absolutely fine ( for the moment) - maybe a little to quick

[MrLongbeard]

I bought a Ryobi - just because it fits the battery pack I have.
But it is "high power" spec - so 400nm rather than the 270 of the normal one.
Whether that is a real 400 NM , who knows!

Did it work, asking for a friend?

[Mr Moofo]

Yes - it did . Took about 30 secs of hammering hard and then it released.

And it also worked again when I eventually got a new tyre!