revtothelimit - motorbike forum

I'm back to this for various reasons, one of which is this: viewtopic.php?t=7026

The workshop is still full of other peoples stuff but the workshop is now clear. And I've started and got the the DTR taxed, tested, insured and ridden.

Anyway, I need to do the clutch cover.

Drain the coolant:



Brushed cleaner and ready to remove:



Looks tolerably clean and tidy inside:



Replacement cover installed:



I've to install the fasteners and ancillaries now and it's done.

The damaged casing:





I might try to repair this, the damage look small enough to be worth the effort.

I'd say that's salvageable. It's not the easiest thing to tell from the pics, but if there is piece of the case that's almost detached I'd probably remove it completely, sand all round to make a key and then flood it with brake cleaner to remove all vestiges of oil. Then JB Weld (other epoxies are available) is your friend.

I was thinking more along the lines of a filed down self tapping screw.

You've got the part in your hand, so you're in the best place to judge. But a self tapper on its own is not much of a barrier to oil.

A blob of silicone round the hole first and it'll be sorted.

Seriously, I'd thought about low melting point allow welding, that worked well when modding airhead rocker covers to have oil fillers.

I picked at it and the small bit you can see on the inside of the casting came off very easily. I'll have a go with low melting point aluminum solder, Luimiweld is one of the brands, and if that doesn't work then I can try chemical metal.

Insomniac inspiration also suggested welding a small plate to the inside of the brake pedal so this can't happen again.

cheb wrote: Sun Feb 26, 2023 7:47 am I picked at it and the small bit you can see on the inside of the casting came off very easily. I'll have a go with low melting point aluminum solder, Luimiweld is one of the brands, and if that doesn't work then I can try chemical metal.

Insomniac inspiration also suggested welding a small plate to the inside of the brake pedal so this can't happen again.

or bond a protector plate to the case itself.

I got it runningish today. It's only running on one cylinder, I swapped the plugs over and it still only ran on the same cylinder so I'll be cleaning the carbs later.

I've got some good fuel hose too so I'll likely just renew the whole lot while I'm there.

I plugged a leak from a core plug in the moighty 406 about 4 years and 40k ago now and it's still going strong (well that bit is). Sloshed as much solvent at it as you can at an area you can't see and can hardly touch, pressed in a blob of of JB.

If theres a half decent sized engineering shop on the island they might have a vapour degreaser you can hang the damaged casing in to get all the oil out.
We had one at Carlisle Engineering and that was a small time shithole owned by a compulsive bullshitter so it cant be that specialized gear I guess.

The broken case will be a long time being fixed, I want to get the bike on the road first and then twitch at the pretty bits.

TBF it has been languishing at the back of the workshop for several years. I've an ultrasonic cleaner and several tins of carb cleaner, and also an outboards carbs to do.

cheb wrote: Sat Mar 04, 2023 2:20 pm I got it runningish today. It's only running on one cylinder, I swapped the plugs over and it still only ran on the same cylinder so I'll be cleaning the carbs later.

Not sure how similar TDR carbs are to LC/YPVS ones, but one area that can cause problems is a buildup of crap behind the 'brass balls'. The only way to clean that part out is by removing said balls and manually cleaning the little air passages. Or taking everything physically removeable off the carb(s), including brass balls, and giving it multiple passes in the ultrasonic bath. After that you've done as much as you can and it just needs to be used regularly.