revtothelimit - motorbike forum

Couchy wrote: Sat Feb 06, 2021 10:03 pm Why has dyno sheet got speed and not revs ?

Something to do with basically I wasn't bothered and it would have meant plugging into ECU/coil etc to get rpm info. With Cat fitted you don't get the right stuff from lambda sensors, (or was it that the zx6r doesn't have one with a cat, I dunno. ) so was just a straight power run.
As I say, the numbers were not massively significant to me, it was only because it was in the Dyno anyway.

Ready to go again.

All indicators, rear end and mirrors removed, installed the brake guard and fitted to battery charger cable


2021-02-07_09-30-36 by Steve Weeks - Flickr2BBcode LITE

Well it was dry, cold... windy.... but... it was dry.

So i took out the ZX6R for a test ride, trying at various rpm from 6000rpm to 12,000rpm.

The QS beats my MT09 factory QS by miles, it's just silky smooth, better than the KTM QS as well.

I didn't try 1st>2nd gear as i'd expect that may be clunky anyway, but then again, i doubt it. But the other gears were just snick, braaaap, snick, braaaap, snick braaaap, smooth as you like. Really really impressed.

Did i mention it was COLD !!!!!

It's bone dry here and all the rain has washed away the salt,so I was thinking of a brief journey out on the bike,but it is bloody freezing.

I may still yet....

Still don't want a QS...but you have at least given me something interesting to ponder over. Why is a high revving 600 smoother and why does it work better at high revs

TBF that's generally my feeling for how it goes 'manually' too.

Mr. Dazzle wrote: Sun Feb 07, 2021 1:49 pm Still don't want a QS...but you have at least given me something interesting to ponder over. Why is a high revving 600 smoother and why does it work better at high revs

TBF that's generally my feeling for how it goes 'manually' too.

They are a bit gimmicky for the road, but on track they're deffo useful. I imagine the faster you are, the more useful they are too. It wouldn't be a deciding factor behind me buying a bike, but I'd have one if an option for sure.

On the ktm 1290s, they definitely worked better when under plenty of load. How much for xsr QS.?

Dodgy knees wrote: Sun Feb 07, 2021 2:03 pm On the ktm 1290s, they definitely worked better when under plenty of load. How much for xsr QS.?

XSR is the factory one from the Mt 09, cost me £150

HAPPY BIRTHDAY !!!!!

According to the wifes Google App thing, we bought this bike 3 years ago today. In the 3 years we've owned it it's done 15-20 trackdays and maybe 150 road miles, but it has been an awesome little thing, it's gone through 6 rear tyres, 2 sets of pads and 4 front tyres, but it's never needed anything apart from oil, filters and at one start of spring it needed a set of plugs.

It's now sitting in the garage fully fettled and ready to roll. Just waiting for the world to open for either the early May at Silverstone, or if the gods allow, a Donny or Brands in the Easter break.

Its had 2-3 times where it's been threatened with being sold on, but it's still managed to keep itself in the garage somehow. Despite my lack of love for the thing, it's really hard to fault it.
It does need a new chain and sprocket for the start of the season, which is already purchased and just waiting for a plan for me to fit it, or me to take up to MSG Racing to fit it, depends if i talk Crust into coming over in spring with an angle grinder to get it off. We noticed on the dyno it has a tight spot on the chain, not ridiculous, but it may as well be 'right' and good.

2018-05-29_08-06-17 by Steve Weeks, on Flickr

Don’t all chains have a tight spot, as in service manual instructions to adjust chain slack at the tight spot?

singlesman wrote: Sat Feb 13, 2021 1:26 pm Don’t all chains have a tight spot, as in service manual instructions to adjust chain slack at the tight spot?

No. They make chains in long lengths and cut to fit.

Sorry Yorick, not sure what you mean. What I meant was that every bike I’ve owned for the last 40 years, be it road or race, has invariably had a point in it where there is less slack in it when turning the rear wheel on a paddock stand.
These are the correct length, fitted chains.
I’ve always just assumed this was the case with any fitted chain and as I mentioned, why service manual tell you to adjust chain slack at the tight point.
Just trying to save Weeksy the cost of a chain, unless it’s really bad.

It's not 'really bad' as such, but it's certainly something that'll need replacing in the next 3-12 months. So while it's winter and the bike isn't in use, it pretty much makes sense to sort now.

Its a lovely looking bike in fantastic condition and with the added QS it would be hard for me to find fault ( I'm not convinced a 600 really needs TC )

Scuffmark wrote: Sat Feb 13, 2021 5:24 pm Its a lovely looking bike in fantastic condition and with the added QS it would be hard for me to find fault ( I'm not convinced a 600 really needs TC )

I'll put you on the list for this time next year

weeksy wrote: Sat Feb 13, 2021 5:26 pm

Scuffmark wrote: Sat Feb 13, 2021 5:24 pm Its a lovely looking bike in fantastic condition and with the added QS it would be hard for me to find fault ( I'm not convinced a 600 really needs TC )

I'll put you on the list for this time next year

2021-02-17_01-46-52 by Steve Weeks, on Flickr

Well i've now watched 2 fairly lengthy youtube videos, one was actually really good, clear and concise... impressed.

No need for nasty rivets, just use nuts and bolts.

MingtheMerciless wrote: Wed Feb 17, 2021 3:08 pm

No need for nasty rivets, just use nuts and bolts.

AND a split link.