revtothelimit - motorbike forum

I harbour long term plans to get one of those frying pan terminal connector with the crimpy tool thingies.

Long term.

crust wrote: Sun Jul 02, 2023 1:05 pm Rather than use sticky electrical tape why not use this:

https://hilltop-products.co.uk/ldpe-spi ... _g_c_pla__

Is that the same Hilltop who do the ECU stuff? If so, I might give 'em a swerve if it's all the same

Mr. Dazzle wrote: Sun Jul 02, 2023 3:03 pm

crust wrote: Sun Jul 02, 2023 1:05 pm Rather than use sticky electrical tape why not use this:

https://hilltop-products.co.uk/ldpe-spi ... _g_c_pla__

Is that the same Hilltop who do the ECU stuff? If so, I might give 'em a swerve if it's all the same

On the plus side you'd end up with eleventy thousand horsepower

Mr. Dazzle wrote: Sun Jul 02, 2023 3:03 pm

crust wrote: Sun Jul 02, 2023 1:05 pm Rather than use sticky electrical tape why not use this:

https://hilltop-products.co.uk/ldpe-spi ... _g_c_pla__

Is that the same Hilltop who do the ECU stuff? If so, I might give 'em a swerve if it's all the same

They're already on there. You can't see them, but trust Hilltop, they're on there!

They could re-flash the Boyer box for moar powah.

crust wrote: Sun Jul 02, 2023 1:05 pm Rather than use sticky electrical tape why not use this:

https://hilltop-products.co.uk/ldpe-spi ... _g_c_pla__

Or this sort of thing.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/225493296783 ... media=COPY

Or for total bodgery;

Or use some heat shrink

Put all the electrical system back together today, and put the tank back on.

I checked at every step along the way I was still getting sparks, in case I was disturbing wires or something. Got big fat sparks all the way up to and including final assembly.

Tried to start her, couple of coughs but nothing. Now my sparks have gone again.

So either the act of trying to kick-start is jiggling something (seems unlikely, that's how I checked the sparks all the way through) or something else is ammiss.

Still got earths etc, voltage dips when I turn the ignition on (I.e. ignition is actually doing something), still got juice at the coils.

Think I might get in touch with Boyer. Only other thing I can think to try is hot wiring it to rule out the switch/key, but said switch goes from 24 megaohms to 0.05ohms when you turn the key, I.e. it seems OK.

Do you have sparks when the plugs are connected to the HT leads but resting against the barrel/head with everything reassembled? In other words, do the sparks go all shy when they're actually faced with igniting petrol, but are present and correct in free air?

And is it one coil per cylinder or does one coil provide sparks for both cylinders?

Yeah that is my other thought TBF, sparking in free air is easier than sparking in a combustion chamber full of compressed air/fuel. S'weird that they then refuse to spark in free air again when you take them back out. They sparked when everything was 'together', they clearly sparked a bit the first time I tried to start it 'cause I got a few revs, but now they won't spark at all (again) in or out of the engine.

It's got one coil per cylinder, but they both fire every time.

My other thought is that the electronics in the box are crapping out when being asked to spark many times in rapid succession, like they would when the engine's running.

Yeah, it is pointing to a failure under load. I'd definitely get on the blower to Boyer, as that seems to be the only common failure point. Something in the black box is getting all wheezy and asthmatic and can only manage short bursts (technical summary)...

As above, the box is about the same age as me

Do Boyer still make electronic ignition units for your Trumpet? If so I'd be inclined to send your unit back to them and ask them to scope it out. If it's gefukt you might be able to wangle a new one for cheap. Or get yours fixed.

This assumes that the problem is with the Boyer unit, of course.

Yeah they still make the exact same kit my FiL bought when Mrs. D was just a twinkle in his eye.

A word with Boyer is indicated, I think. It might be an idea to check all the wiring that's part of the unit to see if it's gone brittle. But I guess that kind of thinking could be applied to the whole bluddy wiring loom...

Well that's kinda what I've been doing TBF...and also why I tried the sparks at every stage or reassembly. Just seems super weird that they'd be there and then just...not, when nothing has (nominally) changed. Which is what makes me peer at the inscrutable black box of electronics.

Spoke to Boyer.

Not a huge amount of success, they suggested I test all things I've already tested (based on their website!).

Only other thing they offer is a £25 "send us the box and we'll stick it on our 'dyno'" service. Which is cheaper than £110 for a new box TBF!

A new one is about the price of a nice meal out with the wife (if such a thing exists).

Even if it turns out to not be the box it's nice to have a spare.

It means you'll be without the box for a few days, but as the bike is currently going nowhere I'd send the box back to Boyer for them to test.

I suspect you'll wind up shelling out £110 for a new one, bu you might get lucky...