Bothering at my TDR250

[cheb]

I've finally ordered some oil delivery pipe. It's best not to rush these things.

[weeksy]

I've finally ordered some oil delivery pipe. It's best not to rush these things.

LOL some of you fellas confuse me... if something needs doing it needs doing.... not in a month, a year... that day... or sooner

[cheb]

For the last however long, pre lockdown for sure, my workshop has been filled with other people's stuff*. Bikes are a hobby so I've had to get other important jobs done first. Having the spares ready to go is merely frustrating.

I also had to decide on which hose to buy. Buying hose online can be frustrating IME, what you get frequently isn't what was pictured nor described, fuel hose especially, I try to buy that in person when I'm on the big island.

*The shed and one of the spare rooms still is.

[Le_Fromage_Grande]

I've finally ordered some oil delivery pipe. It's best not to rush these things.

LOL some of you fellas confuse me... if something needs doing it needs doing.... not in a month, a year... that day... or sooner

You need to grasp the old git fiddling with things mentality, there's no need to rush.

[cheb]

I've not even started the DT200R I bought last year.

FFS.

[cheb]

I'm back to this for various reasons, one of which is this: viewtopic.php?t=7026

[cheb]

The workshop is still full of other peoples stuff but the workshop is now clear. And I've started and got the the DTR taxed, tested, insured and ridden.

Anyway, I need to do the clutch cover.

Drain the coolant:



Brushed cleaner and ready to remove:



Looks tolerably clean and tidy inside:



Replacement cover installed:



I've to install the fasteners and ancillaries now and it's done.

[cheb]

The damaged casing:





I might try to repair this, the damage look small enough to be worth the effort.

[mangocrazy]

I'd say that's salvageable. It's not the easiest thing to tell from the pics, but if there is piece of the case that's almost detached I'd probably remove it completely, sand all round to make a key and then flood it with brake cleaner to remove all vestiges of oil. Then JB Weld (other epoxies are available) is your friend.

[cheb]

I was thinking more along the lines of a filed down self tapping screw.

[mangocrazy]

You've got the part in your hand, so you're in the best place to judge. But a self tapper on its own is not much of a barrier to oil.

[cheb]

A blob of silicone round the hole first and it'll be sorted.

Seriously, I'd thought about low melting point allow welding, that worked well when modding airhead rocker covers to have oil fillers.

[Screwdriver]

When I took similar to a professional welding shop, they reliably informed me it was a "shit casting". When I took offence, the chap apologised and said it was just a term they use, not a comment on my beloved RS250.

Anyhow, it **might** be possible to TiG weld it depending on how shit is it.

Failing that a hard solder or low temperature alloy "weld' would be a good second option.

Either way it will need to be scrupulously cleaned which can be difficult with oil soaked castings.

[cheb]

I picked at it and the small bit you can see on the inside of the casting came off very easily. I'll have a go with low melting point aluminum solder, Luimiweld is one of the brands, and if that doesn't work then I can try chemical metal.

Insomniac inspiration also suggested welding a small plate to the inside of the brake pedal so this can't happen again.

[Gregor]

I picked at it and the small bit you can see on the inside of the casting came off very easily. I'll have a go with low melting point aluminum solder, Luimiweld is one of the brands, and if that doesn't work then I can try chemical metal.

Insomniac inspiration also suggested welding a small plate to the inside of the brake pedal so this can't happen again.

or bond a protector plate to the case itself.

[Potter]

Insomniac inspiration also suggested welding a small plate to the inside of the brake pedal so this can't happen again.

I've rarely ever seen that type of damage, so I don't think it's common.
Looks like a fairly easy fix though.

When I remove the case cover on bikes like that I lay them down on the left side, then you don't get oil drips, no need to drain the oil, just coolant out, lay it over and change the case. I've done it in a motocross paddock.

[cheb]

I got it runningish today. It's only running on one cylinder, I swapped the plugs over and it still only ran on the same cylinder so I'll be cleaning the carbs later.

I've got some good fuel hose too so I'll likely just renew the whole lot while I'm there.

[DefTrap]

I plugged a leak from a core plug in the moighty 406 about 4 years and 40k ago now and it's still going strong (well that bit is). Sloshed as much solvent at it as you can at an area you can't see and can hardly touch, pressed in a blob of of JB.

[demographic]

If theres a half decent sized engineering shop on the island they might have a vapour degreaser you can hang the damaged casing in to get all the oil out.
We had one at Carlisle Engineering and that was a small time shithole owned by a compulsive bullshitter so it cant be that specialized gear I guess.

[Screwdriver]

Yes, agree. It needs to be super clean whatever process you go with. I would be wary of any epoxy based repair in a hot oil bath but received wisdom and some experience tells me something like JB Weld is actually a pretty robust solution.