Dumping a rack of (almost) intact carbs in the Ultrasonic...

[ZRX61]

yes or no?

Slides/diaphragms will be removed, along with the plastic caps, float bowls & assorted brass doodads...

But... the plastic T's etc between the carbs... can they be left & will it bugger the Orings?

I know I can separate the carbs, but those plastic T pieces etc are damn near $45 each FFS & after 43 years they're gonna be brittle... & the only place that has them (& the Orings @ $9 each) is CSMNL in Holland,

[Rockburner]

I've always removed as much as possible, simply because (to my fragile little mind) it means the dirt is more likely to escape the parts and not get deposited anywhere it shouldn't.

[Count Steer]

Most carb cleaners and engine degreasers for ultrasonic are caustic and I found the following...

Highly Vulnerable (Will Be Damaged)

Nitrile (Buna-N / NBR): Poor resistance; will swell, soften, and degrade.
Viton (FKM): Susceptible to attack by strong caustic/alkaline solutions, causing it to soften or blister.
Neoprene: Often fails prematurely in high-concentration caustic systems.
Silicone: Not recommended for concentrated acids or strong caustic bases.

So, it depends what cleaner you're using and what the O rings are made of.

[Count Steer]

Oh...for completeness...

Highly Resistant (Best for Caustic)
PTFE (Teflon): Virtually impervious to all caustic liquids.
FFKM (Perfluoroelastomer): The highest-performing elastomer; handles extreme temperatures and strong alkalis.
Aflas (TFE/P): Offers excellent resistance to strong bases and amines.
EPDM: Generally shows good resistance to mild to moderate caustic environments.

[ZRX61]

I have the purple Simple Green which is supposed to be the go-to for ultrasonics, but also Dawn dishsoap which is apparently about 50% salt, I've used laundry soap in my small version, but there was no plastic or rubber on the stuff I cleaned in that one.

Ph-neutral laundry detergents are available... sounds like that may be the safe alternative to buggering the orings?

[Count Steer]

If you're not using an aggressive cleaner designed to remove varnish/lacquer type deposits for the first clean I wouldn't worry too much tbh. For 99% of jobs we just used to use Teepol added to the water. That sort of thing will degrease and shift general crud. Main thing for that level of cleaning is just to break the surface tension and shift grease.

(One if our techs used to clean his specs in our small one - I'm pretty sure that was the only reason he ordered that one. ).

[ZRX61]

I've always removed as much as possible, simply because (to my fragile little mind) it means the dirt is more likely to escape the parts and not get deposited anywhere it shouldn't.

Watched a video where the guy took a syringe to force solution into places & suck it out of other places while the gubbins was in the tank.

[ZRX61]

If you're not using an aggressive cleaner designed to remove varnish/lacquer type deposits for the first clean I wouldn't worry too much tbh. For 99% of jobs we just used to use Teepol added to the water. That sort of thing will degrease and shift general crud. Main thing for that level of cleaning is just to break the surface tension and shift grease.

(One if our techs used to clean his specs in our small one - I'm pretty sure that was the only reason he ordered that one. ).

Original formula PineSol does wonders on carb snarge.

[ZRX61]

WooT! found some bloke selling aluminum fuel tube doodads with the O rings that goes between the left pair & right pair of carbs to replace the brittle plastic pieces.

[Count Steer]

If you're not using an aggressive cleaner designed to remove varnish/lacquer type deposits for the first clean I wouldn't worry too much tbh. For 99% of jobs we just used to use Teepol added to the water. That sort of thing will degrease and shift general crud. Main thing for that level of cleaning is just to break the surface tension and shift grease.

(One if our techs used to clean his specs in our small one - I'm pretty sure that was the only reason he ordered that one. ).

Original formula PineSol does wonders on carb snarge.

Certainly make the carbs smell nice.

Can you still get the Original Formula??

[ZRX61]

Certainly make the carbs smell nice.

Can you still get the Original Formula??

Yup

[ZRX61]

Watched a bunch of YT videos, mostly from this chap:
https://www.youtube.com/@CarbKingEU/videos

Consensus seems to be if the Orings etc are new, go for it, if they're old, separate the carb bank & do a proper job... So I guess I'm tearing then completely apart for a proper job.. so they might well be getting fresh paint too (the engine & exhaust is getting some)

Spiffy new 30liter ultrasonic is somewhere between Illinois & California, ETA tomorrow.

[ZRX61]

Well chuffed with the 30l, which I fill with hot water via a bucket from the bath tap..

but...

Jets & other gallimaufry from the GPz750 original carbs in the small ultrasonic with water/Dawn dishsoap this morning. Pisser with this one is the max time is only 6 minutes.. I may buy yet another small (3l*) cleaner that allows a 30 minute session. This one came from Horrible Fright, & while it does a decent job, that 6 minute deal boils my piss.
The alternative to this plan is using the big one, but putting the small parts in a glass jar with cleaning goop & fill the rest of the tank with plain water.

In other news, the company I got my 30l tank from also has a 50l version that is on wheels.

* or 6l, as that size comes with a ball valve drain instead of having to pick it up & tip the water out.

[Count Steer]

The alternative to this plan is using the big one, but putting the small parts in a glass jar with cleaning goop & fill the rest of the tank with plain water.

Should work fine. Maybe try a thinner walled plastic container. Can't remember what we used tbh or whether stiff walls ie glass transmits the vibes better but did the small in large trick routinely.

[ZRX61]

Should work fine. Maybe try a thinner walled plastic container. Can't remember what we used tbh or whether stiff walls ie glass transmits the vibes better but did the small in large trick routinely.

In the small version this morning I stood a mason jar in the tank. It did fine. Issue is I can't see anything on the main jets to tell me what size they are... even with a 10x jewellers loup.

[Skub]

Issue is I can't see anything on the main jets to tell me what size they are... even with a 10x jewellers loup.

Maybe easier just to buy 4 mains from a source where you'll be certain of the size. Not knowing would be in my head...

[ZRX61]

Maybe easier just to buy 4 mains from a source where you'll be certain of the size. Not knowing would be in my head...

I have some new ones sat here, that look to be the same size (using my 10x loup... ffs LOL!). One issue is a jet kit was fitted when it got pods & a Yosh pipe back in the day. The needles most certainly aren't stock. I still have no idea if this is still 738cc or 810.
I think I'm gonna have to use the old mains/needles & see what it runs like.