MingtheMerciless wrote: Tue May 27, 2025 2:18 pm
Dropped broken Nobl hub/wheel off at the LBS for hub guts to be transferred to a new Onyx hub and the wheel rebuilt......hefty bill incoming
What is happening for you to destroy hub shells if you don't mind me asking...? Are you running these on your eBike...?
No they were on my Speccy Enduro and it’s now my “winter” wheel on the Curtis so the wheel is about 8 years old (carbon Nobl rim and Nobl hub). Apparently the Nobl hubs had a design issue where the hub flange cracks , I did get one done under warranty, about 4 years and 10 months into a 5 year warranty but this one is way outside that. Fortunately the expensive hub internals are Onyx so fit straight into an Onyx hub as Nobl don’t make hubs anymore.
And thanks for the update on the fox dampers as I was umming and ahhing over an SL or full fat 36 for the Curtis and I’ll be going full fat now. (Replacing the DT Swiss fork that I put on it 5 years ago).
Okay MTB people. Morzine beckons , so prep is beginning. On eeb and general bikes I am a bit of an Ergonomic grips fan. On the Privateer I have Deathgrips - they are fine but anything else out there that offers a little more comfort / vibe isolation ?
"Of all the stories you told me, which ones were true and which ones weren't?"
"My dear Doctor, they're all true."
"Even the lies?"
"Especially the lies."
Epocalypse had picked up a creak, so cleaned and inspected it. Hopefully it was a slightly loose pedal (both taken off, checked and full of the "special grease"). The motor has some slight play in the spindle bearings and the shop has a bearing replacement kit on order for it. Headset also stripped and regreased. Other than that repositioned the bell so there's less chance of it taking a chunk out/impaling me in a crash. Chain still in good nick but front ring may need a swap soon. Ready for the Wednesday commute to work now.
"Of all the stories you told me, which ones were true and which ones weren't?"
"My dear Doctor, they're all true."
"Even the lies?"
"Especially the lies."
Hopefully sorted out some TIME pedal play. The pedal that got a battering on Dartmoor had developed some play/rock. Stripped and replaced the outboard bearing, no way the bush was coming out (I need a 14.9mm drift for that). I'm hoping the outboard bearing had been ovalised so replacing it seems to have got rid of the play but I'll see after tonights ride.
"Of all the stories you told me, which ones were true and which ones weren't?"
"My dear Doctor, they're all true."
"Even the lies?"
"Especially the lies."
Not me but a mate has opened up his EP8 motor with 2500 miles on it to replace bearings. He has been warned about the chance of it throwing a "factory calibration required" error code when he reassembles it but has ploughed on nonetheless. So on opening it up, all bearings that were easily accessible were all fine, the gears all looked good, no moisture or dirt ingress either.
The only grounchy bearing was on the motor. To get to it has involved desoldering a PCB and this allows access to the motor. The armature has come out and the bearing at the bottom is fine but the bearing on the top which has the worm drive above it is horrible.
So the £600 question is will it work once he's replaced the bearing?
I'm interested as mines about the same mileage and I swear its started feeling tight/resistive when it gets hot.
"Of all the stories you told me, which ones were true and which ones weren't?"
"My dear Doctor, they're all true."
"Even the lies?"
"Especially the lies."
MingtheMerciless wrote: Mon Jun 30, 2025 9:11 pm
Not me but a mate has opened up his EP8 motor with 2500 miles on it to replace bearings. He has been warned about the chance of it throwing a "factory calibration required" error code when he reassembles it but has ploughed on nonetheless. So on opening it up, all bearings that were easily accessible were all fine, the gears all looked good, no moisture or dirt ingress either.
The only grounchy bearing was on the motor. To get to it has involved desoldering a PCB and this allows access to the motor. The armature has come out and the bearing at the bottom is fine but the bearing on the top which has the worm drive above it is horrible.
So the £600 question is will it work once he's replaced the bearing?
I'm interested as mines about the same mileage and I swear its started feeling tight/resistive when it gets hot.
I think it'll be fine. It's more the PCB stuff that's a problem for the motor builders, bearings are just bearings. Check with bearing man on the bearing because he often uses better sealed versions
Bled the fronty, tried to fit a 220 disc but didn’t have the correct mount , the back tyre is leaking air slowly. Trying to correct but may have to re do tomorrow.
Morzine Friday
Mr Moofo wrote: Mon Jun 30, 2025 10:40 pm
Bled the fronty, tried to fit a 220 disc but didn’t have the correct mount , the back tyre is leaking air slowly. Trying to correct but may have to re do tomorrow.
Morzine Friday
Why is the back leaking ? What tyres are you running for Morz ?
Mr Moofo wrote: Mon Jun 30, 2025 10:40 pm
Bled the fronty, tried to fit a 220 disc but didn’t have the correct mount , the back tyre is leaking air slowly. Trying to correct but may have to re do tomorrow.
Morzine Friday
Why is the back leaking ? What tyres are you running for Morz ?
The tyre was losing pressure over a few days - not a huge biggie but it it being used hard then it might hasten the air loss. Put in new fluid thinking that would help, it didn’t.
Changed the valve core last night - and it has now gone down even quicker. Just trying a new valve core before redoing the whole tubeless process
Tyres - I am not good enough that it matters too much but Pirelli Scorpion Enduros (which came on the bike). And it looks like it is going to be wet …
Mr Moofo wrote: Tue Jul 01, 2025 10:58 am
Egg cup and water says not the valve …
Tape it is then.
Currently resisting the tape until the pressure goes down …
Why ? You're going away in a few days, take a bike that's 100%. Would you rather tape it this evening when there's fuck all else to do, or tape it when your mates are out riding in Morz ?
Currently resisting the tape until the pressure goes down …
Why ? You're going away in a few days, take a bike that's 100%. Would you rather tape it this evening when there's fuck all else to do, or tape it when your mates are out riding in Morz ?
Bastard … goes off to man shed.
TBF - I felt the valve was at fault. So with a new stem in, I am just waiting. But obviously I would rather do it here when I have a compressor in my garage!
Currently resisting the tape until the pressure goes down …
Why ? You're going away in a few days, take a bike that's 100%. Would you rather tape it this evening when there's fuck all else to do, or tape it when your mates are out riding in Morz ?
As expected the tape is bolloxed. The rear tyre sealant used by the last owner has the consistency of evostix impact adhesive - just cleaned it of the edges but the is a thick coating inside the tyre. Never seen that before.
Contemplating a tyre change because of that. What I have is:
1) The Pirelli Scorpion Enduro R
2) Magic Mary duper gravity soft (which I remember is a pig the try and get on a rim)
3) Michelin Wild Enduro Rear.
Any suggestions from anyone?
The Pirelli will stay on the front - I don’t do the matchy matchy tyre thing!
