weeksy wrote: ↑Mon Apr 22, 2024 3:32 pm
You doing it yourself @Beancounter ?
Going to try to. Seems that I might need to invest in a hydraulic bearing press and possibly a decent large bench vice.
I did that with my Cannondale's motor, the crank was seized so pulled the motor out, whipped the drive side cover off, had a look, scratched my chin, then scratched my arse, found a cardboard box and packed it off to the repairers.
weeksy wrote: ↑Mon Apr 22, 2024 5:02 pm
They're not local to you i'll admit... but there's a thing called Couriers and postal services
I'm curious as to how you get on and what you find though. My Orbeas are Shimano motors so 'non-servicable' and i kinda accept that one day they'll die... i just hope it's 1 week before the warranty expires and get replaced
Yeah, if I was using my bike regularly then I'd ask the shop mechanic to deal with it but given I ride infrequently it's (a) slightly harder to justify the expense and (b) I have the time as well as a mate with a hydraulic press. I also do feel the motor is so far beyond repair that I'm unlikely to make matters worse (famous last words).
To be fair to my bike, it gets abused. Ridden infrequently, chucked in the back of the car after the ride and if lucky it gets washed when I get home but more often than not it won't be washed for a few days which by then the sandy water has done its damage.
Intertsed to see how this pans out as I think I have the same motor. It doesn't get abused as much but it is noisy, which is a concern
Mrs M's gen 1 bösch was getting noisy so I opened it up and the outboard bearings were shot so ordered new ones and managed to drive the old ones out and fit the new ones without any drama. I also fitted an after market outer bearing seal to help seal what was the weakest bearing on the motor. All worked fine but she bought a Levo so its pretty much sat in the shed unloved and unused but fully refurbed since then.
"Of all the stories you told me, which ones were true and which ones weren't?"
"My dear Doctor, they're all true."
"Even the lies?"
"Especially the lies."
MingtheMerciless wrote: ↑Tue Apr 23, 2024 9:07 am
Mrs M's gen 1 bösch was getting noisy so I opened it up and the outboard bearings were shot so ordered new ones and managed to drive the old ones out and fit the new ones without any drama. I also fitted an after market outer bearing seal to help seal what was the weakest bearing on the motor. All worked fine but she bought a Levo so its pretty much sat in the shed unloved and unused but fully refurbed since then.
Our Liv was the same, but i sold it to remove that situation.
Got the cover off to find that the bearings circled yellow are seized. Knocking out the large bearing shouldn't be too hard but removing the gear and smaller bearing is likely to more difficult.
IMG_20240421_163607_869 (1) (Medium).jpg (100.24 KiB) Viewed 1252 times
The blue circled bearing keeps the gear on the crank. From the videos I've seen, this gear should have come off with the cover in the photo above. The crank and gear turn by hand but it's clear the bearings are goosed. Getting it off could be tricky given the circuit boards...
IMG_20240421_163612_513 (1) (Medium).jpg (101.12 KiB) Viewed 1252 times
As I understand it, the actual gear driven by the motor is located beneath the circuit boards circled purple. Haven't been able to check that yet.
IMG_20240421_163612_513 (2) (Medium).jpg (97.79 KiB) Viewed 1252 times
"Of all the stories you told me, which ones were true and which ones weren't?"
"My dear Doctor, they're all true."
"Even the lies?"
"Especially the lies."
Lol I hear you. I found FoD last night on that Status tough, but in my defence my knee has been playing up.
Weirdly, it's all good today, hence me doing a decent Zwift ride.
Washed the Trek road bike, hmm that back wheel is a bit noisy, took it to bits, every bearing fooked so its off to the shop so they can make it better.
Ebike commute to work for the next week then
"Of all the stories you told me, which ones were true and which ones weren't?"
"My dear Doctor, they're all true."
"Even the lies?"
"Especially the lies."
I was feeling a bit tight so I got a budget pack of eight off Amazon & they're actually ok, surprisingly so to be honest. Will see how they last. And they've not been out in the wet yet, either.
Curtis BB area picked up a creak yesterday. Stripped and cleaned BB, it was fine, so just popped a bit more grease in the bearings. BB cups retorqued and the DS was not as tight as it should be. Glad I spotted that as that's a frame killer. All reassembled and NDS pedal also cleaned and regreased as creak was from that side of the bike. Hopefully fixed.
"Of all the stories you told me, which ones were true and which ones weren't?"
"My dear Doctor, they're all true."
"Even the lies?"
"Especially the lies."
Fitted the T-Type AXS gears to the bike. Hardest bit was extracting the micro spline driver off the hub but after a lot of huffing and puffing and a nasty blood blister it came off.
Fitting the mech is its own special procedure and its tension/position is set on either gear 5 or 6, with a specific number of chain links for your bike and sprocket size (SRAM have a calculator for this) and no sag. After watching the SRAM video a few times all went well, even better after I used the right cassette gear....d'oh. Micro adjustment can be done with an app, which shifts the deraillieur 0.2mm either way with each step to fine tune any noise out of the gears. Shifting is a bit slower and it definitely engages with a more solid clunk than stock AXS or cable gears BUT you can shift under load without backing off a jot!
Test ride tomorrow on the Downs.
"Of all the stories you told me, which ones were true and which ones weren't?"
"My dear Doctor, they're all true."
"Even the lies?"
"Especially the lies."
MingtheMerciless wrote: ↑Tue Jul 23, 2024 7:26 pm
Fitted the T-Type AXS gears to the bike. Hardest bit was extracting the micro spline driver off the hub but after a lot of huffing and puffing and a nasty blood blister it came off.
Fitting the mech is its own special procedure and its tension/position is set on either gear 5 or 6, with a specific number of chain links for your bike and sprocket size (SRAM have a calculator for this) and no sag. After watching the SRAM video a few times all went well, even better after I used the right cassette gear....d'oh. Micro adjustment can be done with an app, which shifts the deraillieur 0.2mm either way with each step to fine tune any noise out of the gears. Shifting is a bit slower and it definitely engages with a more solid clunk than stock AXS or cable gears BUT you can shift under load without backing off a jot!
Test ride tomorrow on the Downs.
I kinda get it, kinda don't.
I think it'll be one of those things that you only really grasp once having tried it a bit.
I also think you need to be trying harder than I do
I was an early AXS adopter when it came out, in the 4 years and 3 winters its been on the bike I think I've lubed the jockey wheels a few times and only once did the shifting get out of whack when for unknown reasons the b tension screw unwound itself.
"Of all the stories you told me, which ones were true and which ones weren't?"
"My dear Doctor, they're all true."
"Even the lies?"
"Especially the lies."
Epocalypse into LBS for all new frame bearings (approx 14 months old) as I am a bearing destroyer. Also hub bearing checks and a brake bleed whilst it's there.
Shock and Forks off for service but it would appear the knock in my headset is in fact the CSU well and truly on the way out so that'll be a warranty job, last time LBS found this the customer got a whole new fork from SRAM. It's a ZEB and whilst its been worked its not like its lived in the Peaks or Dartmoor all its life so I'm a bit disappointed, though trawling forums some people are on their 3rd or 4th warranty CSU.
"Of all the stories you told me, which ones were true and which ones weren't?"
"My dear Doctor, they're all true."
"Even the lies?"
"Especially the lies."
