Chain rivet tool and techniques

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weeksy
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Chain rivet tool and techniques

Post by weeksy »

Doing a motorbike chain is one of those things i've never really got involved in before, but i did notice on the dyno the other day the ZX6R has a bit of a tight spot so it'll be replaced by a nice shiny item in the not too distant future.

So first of all i need the parts, which is no issue as i think Couch has a set in spares for the ZX6, so that's all good.

But only once have i ever riveted a chain. Once once have i ever split one too and that was angle grinder jobbie.

But the chain tools i've seen about seem to imply they'll split the chain much like they do on bicycles... So thought i'd look into it.

What tool do you use etc.
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Re: Chain rivet tool and techniques

Post by Yorick »

I have a good tool, but still grind the old heads off.
But it's also easy to over tighten when squeezing the end plate on and peening the ends over.
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Re: Chain rivet tool and techniques

Post by Le_Fromage_Grande »

You'll need to grind the heads off the old chain no matter what tool you have.
Most people over tighten the rivet link, you're better off with a split link.
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Re: Chain rivet tool and techniques

Post by KungFooBob »

I used to go buy a chain and sprocket set from Troggy Dave, fit it all at home with the split link... then ride it back to Toggy Dave and use his tool to put the softlink in.

He's retired now.

Good job two of the bikes have shafts and the other doesn't have enough power to worry about not using a split link.
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Re: Chain rivet tool and techniques

Post by Le_Fromage_Grande »

KungFooBob wrote: Mon Feb 08, 2021 9:05 am Good job two of the bikes have shafts and the other doesn't have enough power to worry about not using a split link.
What difference does the power of the bike make to whether or not you use a split link, the side plates of the chain and the rollers transmit the power, not the spring clip, all the spring clip does is stop the side plate coming off, the same as squashing the end of the rivet link.

I wonder if you can still buy endless chains, for the mileage I do, taking the swingarm out isn't that big a job and I might as well clean the suspension linkages while I've got it apart.
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Re: Chain rivet tool and techniques

Post by KungFooBob »

Le_Fromage_Grande wrote: Mon Feb 08, 2021 9:14 am
KungFooBob wrote: Mon Feb 08, 2021 9:05 am Good job two of the bikes have shafts and the other doesn't have enough power to worry about not using a split link.
What difference does the power of the bike make to whether or not you use a split link, the side plates of the chain and the rollers transmit the power, not the spring clip, all the spring clip does is stop the side plate coming off, the same as squashing the end of the rivet link.
If it comes off I'll only be doing 60mph rather than 160mph :)
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Re: Chain rivet tool and techniques

Post by Le_Fromage_Grande »

I've only ever had two chains come off, both on dirt bikes, both straight after jumping, one was on a KTM that I'd never checked the split link on, so I've no idea if it was fitted correctly, the other was on a Husqvarna and the chain snapped on a link that wasn't the split link, indicating the split link was stronger than the other links (or more likely, it was newer than the rest of the chain)
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Re: Chain rivet tool and techniques

Post by The Spin Doctor »

Le_Fromage_Grande wrote: Mon Feb 08, 2021 9:05 am You'll need to grind the heads off the old chain no matter what tool you have.
Most people over tighten the rivet link, you're better off with a split link.
Based on advice on this forum, I actually fitted a split link to my modestly-powered XJ6 - genuine DID by the way as is the chain. I've lost two spring links so far in about 8000 miles. Fortunately, as I clean and lube the chain after virtually every ride, I noticed.

Any suggestions why this might be? I did wonder if it could be the rear wheel alignment being out putting a bit of a twist in the chain and pinging the spring link off, but visually it lines up OK and the bike tracks straight hands-off - it's never been dropped so should be straight.
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Re: Chain rivet tool and techniques

Post by Le_Fromage_Grande »

You are putting the spring clip on with the closed end facing forwards if it's on the top run of the chain and it's fully in the grooves?

Apart from that I don't know, might be worth getting a bike shop to have a look.
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Re: Chain rivet tool and techniques

Post by Druid »

I have been fortunate enough to be able to borrow a chain rivetting tool

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Made by Bergen, comes with pins to suit most chain sizes. I've always ground the heads off the rivet and knocked the link out with a parallel punch.

A couple of years ago I bought a chain and sprocket set that came with a "free" chain tool

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I thought it was probably worth what I paid for it but thought I'd give it a try. It's quite well designed so that you can't over tighten the link, but it is rather fiddly to use. Results are pretty good

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I've just had a quick check and they're about £20 which is a fair saving over a Whale tool or similar, especially if you're only using it once every couple of years
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Re: Chain rivet tool and techniques

Post by GuzziPaul »

I've done a couple of chains on the Tuono. I don't bother grinding the ends off the rivets, just cut straight through the chain saves a lot of messing about, its not like your going to be using it again (assuming your not). I have a riveting tool, but have also done it with a lump hammer as an anvil and a small peening hammer for the rivets.
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Re: Chain rivet tool and techniques

Post by mangocrazy »

If there's any chance you'll re-use the old chain, grind the heads off the pins of the rivet link and press them out. If the chain is scrap, have at it with an angle grinder and slitting disc.

I really wouldn't fancy trusting a spring clip, and the manufacturers almost always provide a rivetted link, so why not use it? The thing with rivet links is that they take a surprising amount of force to actually get in place. They are quite a tight interference fit on the pins and even without being rivetted there's no way they would work loose.As long as the side plate is sufficiently far home to gently compress the O/W/X rings, you're probably OK. It's certainly good enough to ride it down to your friendly local motorcycle dealers to get them to rivet it up.
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Re: Chain rivet tool and techniques

Post by derek badger »

I bring the head off the old pins and use one of these to push the pin out.

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I then fit the new rivet link, squish it home with mole grips and use a Whale riveter to peen over the end of the pins.

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I've had two chains snap while riding, neither were fitted by me and were in the bikes when I got them. Luckily there was no damage to either bike, my mate had one go on his FZ750 and it took a large chunk out of the crankcase.
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Re: Chain rivet tool and techniques

Post by the_priest »

I got an 1 Ognibene Quality Chain Joining Tool with my genuine DID Chain and sprocket set and it did the job perfectly. Still had to cut the old chain off though, but that was easy enough.
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Re: Chain rivet tool and techniques

Post by Taipan »

I've always used a club hammer on the back of the chain then a ball peen hammer to peen over the rivets. But after watchuing the Del Boys Garage video the other day, I may get a chain rivetter?

I always thought split links were for non o-ring chains so you could immerse them in stove top oil baths, but I noted the other day my bike has a split link!