Kawasaki H1 1971
- Taipan
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Re: Kawasaki H1 1971
Cracks happen on the down tubes around the front engine mounts, it wasnt an issue on the road for me but on the track I had to weld it up after every meeting. Later frames added a 15mm dia or so tube across the frame which seemed to reduce this because the frame wasn't being pulled in. Make sure the engine bolts are shimmed for the same reason
Go here and look at the 1st pic down http://www.kawatriple.com/partid/oilpump/oilpump.htm
On the RHS there is a diamond shaped plate on teh end of the oil pump with an o-ring. If you look closely there is a small tang no more that 2mm which engages with the spindle, that tang is fragile and wears out and if it snaps off your oil pump stops working with catastrophic results. I dont suggest taking the whole oil pump apart the threads are very fragile but I would check the condition of that tang I have 3 or 4 pumps in bits that are all knackered
Once in a while check the tightness of the screw that holds the worm drive on the end of the crank, the can come undone. You'll know when it happens by the bulge that appears in you casing (yeah, my KH did that)
If you can still get them Iridium plugs work well in these engines (make sod all difference in anything else but they do seem to work in these)
I cant remember if the A has the big circular distributor (mines a B) but keep an eye on the length of the brushes to avoid pitting
I've got various bits including a few for an A such as a fuel tank and even a brand new steering damper kit. I also have the factory manual I can run through a photocopier if you are interested. PM me if you are stuck for anything I'll have a rummage.
Lower bars and longer shocks will help avoid the wobbles (but you can go too far, I had long shocks and an 18" front wheel so now its slow to turn).
If the crank hasn't been rebuilt, Graham Dyson swapped all the rubber seals for labyrinth seals on mine and it coped with me wringing its neck. Sadly Graham passed away but Nova should still be able to do it. Expensive but well recommended.
Clutch springs are soft and the clutch slips with provocation. I still have a set of heavy duty springs somewhere but in the end I went with SS50 valve springs (very heavy mind)
Keep the kick starter bolt tight because if the spines get shabby the bosses are like gold dust
Most of all Enjoy !
Go here and look at the 1st pic down http://www.kawatriple.com/partid/oilpump/oilpump.htm
On the RHS there is a diamond shaped plate on teh end of the oil pump with an o-ring. If you look closely there is a small tang no more that 2mm which engages with the spindle, that tang is fragile and wears out and if it snaps off your oil pump stops working with catastrophic results. I dont suggest taking the whole oil pump apart the threads are very fragile but I would check the condition of that tang I have 3 or 4 pumps in bits that are all knackered
Once in a while check the tightness of the screw that holds the worm drive on the end of the crank, the can come undone. You'll know when it happens by the bulge that appears in you casing (yeah, my KH did that)
If you can still get them Iridium plugs work well in these engines (make sod all difference in anything else but they do seem to work in these)
I cant remember if the A has the big circular distributor (mines a B) but keep an eye on the length of the brushes to avoid pitting
I've got various bits including a few for an A such as a fuel tank and even a brand new steering damper kit. I also have the factory manual I can run through a photocopier if you are interested. PM me if you are stuck for anything I'll have a rummage.
Lower bars and longer shocks will help avoid the wobbles (but you can go too far, I had long shocks and an 18" front wheel so now its slow to turn).
If the crank hasn't been rebuilt, Graham Dyson swapped all the rubber seals for labyrinth seals on mine and it coped with me wringing its neck. Sadly Graham passed away but Nova should still be able to do it. Expensive but well recommended.
Clutch springs are soft and the clutch slips with provocation. I still have a set of heavy duty springs somewhere but in the end I went with SS50 valve springs (very heavy mind)
Keep the kick starter bolt tight because if the spines get shabby the bosses are like gold dust
Most of all Enjoy !
Last edited by Ian on Tue Jul 18, 2023 1:01 pm, edited 1 time in total.
- Skub
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Re: Kawasaki H1 1971
Thanks very much for the golden tips Ian and welcome in,I hope you stick around.Ian wrote: ↑Tue Jul 18, 2023 12:58 pm Cracks happen on the down tubes around the front engine mounts, it wasnt an issue on the road for me but on the track I had to weld it up after every meeting. Later frames added a 15mm dia or so tube across the frame which seemed to reduce this because the frame wasn't being pulled in. Make sure the engine bolts are shimmed for the same reason
Go here and look at the 1st pic down http://www.kawatriple.com/partid/oilpump/oilpump.htm
On the RHS there is a diamond shaped plate on teh end of the oil pump with an o-ring. If you look closely there is a small tang no more that 2mm which engages with the spindle, that tang is fragile and wears out and if it snaps off your oil pump stops working with catastrophic results. I dont suggest taking the whole oil pump apart the threads are very fragile but I would check the condition of that tang I have 3 or 4 pumps in bits that are all knackered
Once in a while check the tightness of the screw that holds the worm drive on the end of the crank, the can come undone. You'll know when it happens by the bulge that appears in you casing (yeah, my KH did that)
If you can still get them Iridium plugs work well in these engines (make sod all difference in anything else but they do seem to work in these)
I cant remember if the A has the big circular distributor (mines a B) but keep an eye on the length of the brushes to avoid pitting
I've got various bits including a few for an A such as a fuel tank and even a brand new steering damper kit. I also have the factory manual I can run through a photocopier if you are interested. PM me if you are stuck for anything I'll have a rummage.
Lower bars and longer shocks will help avoid the wobbles (but you can go too far, I had long shocks and an 18" front wheel so now its slow to turn).
If the crank hasn't been rebuilt, Graham Dyson swapped all the rubber seals for labyrinth seals on mine and it coped with me wringing its neck. Sadly Graham passed away but Nova should still be able to do it. Expensive but well recommended.
Clutch springs are soft and the clutch slips with provocation. I still have a set of heavy duty springs somewhere but in the end I went with SS50 valve springs (very heavy mind)
Keep the kick starter bolt tight because if the spines get shabby the bosses are like gold dust
Most of all Enjoy !
"Be kind to past versions of yourself that didn't know what you know now."
Walt Whitman
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Walt Whitman
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- weeksy
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Re: Kawasaki H1 1971
That should be it i think fella... You should now be free to play i think.
Staying out of that section is a wise plan.
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Re: Kawasaki H1 1971
I find it easy to avoid that section,as it doesn't interest me at all,so I leave it to the folk who do enjoy it.
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Re: Kawasaki H1 1971
This is Pete's (former owner) video,not mine. I've managed to flood it when attempting first start.
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- Skub
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Re: Kawasaki H1 1971
I got the H1 fired up today. It refused to start for my birthday yesterday,the bastard. My hamfisted starting technique had flooded the bike,so a few kicks on a wide open throttle and away it went. Musical cacophony,a symphony of thrashing,howling violence and smoke. Marvellous.
I had a short maiden run,curtailed by the fucking endless July rain,but sweet nevertheless.
Everything seems to work,the engine pulls from as little a 3k,but needs to be above 4k before asking too much. Above 6k is where it likes to be. I was expecting it to be a lot more vibey,but aside from a blurry r/h mirror,it was surprisingly smooth.
The front brake is laughable and the rear brake is really required to get anything approaching retardation.
But,oh the intake moan and exhaust noise. I'm in love.
There's a certain visceral side of biking that I had utterly forgotten and this 52 year old bike with all it's massive failings when judged by today's machines,has it in spades. Even modest bikes are miles better than this old clanker in every way,but I can see why folk still ride them. I can also see why some improve the brakes.
I had a short maiden run,curtailed by the fucking endless July rain,but sweet nevertheless.
Everything seems to work,the engine pulls from as little a 3k,but needs to be above 4k before asking too much. Above 6k is where it likes to be. I was expecting it to be a lot more vibey,but aside from a blurry r/h mirror,it was surprisingly smooth.
The front brake is laughable and the rear brake is really required to get anything approaching retardation.
But,oh the intake moan and exhaust noise. I'm in love.
There's a certain visceral side of biking that I had utterly forgotten and this 52 year old bike with all it's massive failings when judged by today's machines,has it in spades. Even modest bikes are miles better than this old clanker in every way,but I can see why folk still ride them. I can also see why some improve the brakes.
"Be kind to past versions of yourself that didn't know what you know now."
Walt Whitman
https://soundcloud.com/skub1955
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- Taipan
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Re: Kawasaki H1 1971
Fulfilling your dream. Well done that man, or your health to enjoy as some might say!
- weeksy
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Re: Kawasaki H1 1971
Nah I won't tinker too much from stock,I'm going to enjoy the bike for what it is,instead of what it's not,but if there were any superdooper brake shoes to be had,I'll be doing that for sure.
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Re: Kawasaki H1 1971
You need to chamfer the shoe leading edge to get them to apply fully/evenly, or something.
I read it on a Supa5 forum and I think it applies to most drum setups
I read it on a Supa5 forum and I think it applies to most drum setups
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Re: Kawasaki H1 1971
I dimly recall such antics from my long lost youth.KungFooBob wrote: ↑Thu Jul 20, 2023 1:50 pm You need to chamfer the shoe leading edge to get them to apply fully/evenly, or something.
I read it on a Supa5 forum and I think it applies to most drum setups
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Re: Kawasaki H1 1971
I meant to add,since this bike was made in 1971 and the helmet law didn't come into force in the UK until 1973,I made the executive decision that the proper maiden run would be sans lid. And so it came to pass,just for the full fat experience yanno. Shit brakes,peaky engine,strange bike and no helmet,what could go wrong?
Live fast and die young.
oh wait.....
Live fast and die young.
oh wait.....
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Re: Kawasaki H1 1971
Put some lead shot inside the bars.Skub wrote: ↑Thu Jul 20, 2023 1:20 pm I got the H1 fired up today. It refused to start for my birthday yesterday,the bastard. My hamfisted starting technique had flooded the bike,so a few kicks on a wide open throttle and away it went. Musical cacophony,a symphony of thrashing,howling violence and smoke. Marvellous.
I had a short maiden run,curtailed by the fucking endless July rain,but sweet nevertheless.
Everything seems to work,the engine pulls from as little a 3k,but needs to be above 4k before asking too much. Above 6k is where it likes to be. I was expecting it to be a lot more vibey,but aside from a blurry r/h mirror,it was surprisingly smooth.
The front brake is laughable and the rear brake is really required to get anything approaching retardation.
But,oh the intake moan and exhaust noise. I'm in love.
There's a certain visceral side of biking that I had utterly forgotten and this 52 year old bike with all it's massive failings when judged by today's machines,has it in spades. Even modest bikes are miles better than this old clanker in every way,but I can see why folk still ride them. I can also see why some improve the brakes.
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Re: Kawasaki H1 1971
I'll put some lead shot in yo emigrated ass boi.
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Re: Kawasaki H1 1971
Spiffing!
A belated Happy Birthday too.
🏍
A belated Happy Birthday too.
🏍
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Re: Kawasaki H1 1971
I'd forgotten they'd got TLS drum brakes... Back in the early 70s I owned a CB77 Honda that had TLS front and rear brakes. The front was mightily improved by sending it off to Joe Dunphy. He fitted different brake linings to the shoes, skimmed the drum so it was true all round and chamfered the leading edge of the shoes, as KFB mentioned. It was so much better I was able to lock the front and fall off when a dog ran out in front of me...
But the noise is the thing. Those early H1s are the closest in sound to Agostini's MV-3. The sound of tearing calico...
Nice one. I'm sure it will improve the quality of life immensely...
But the noise is the thing. Those early H1s are the closest in sound to Agostini's MV-3. The sound of tearing calico...
Nice one. I'm sure it will improve the quality of life immensely...
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