Chain lube/wax/paste

[Supermofo]

You're allowed to pull me up on stuff mate if it's deserved, it's deserved. But the chain didn't have any tight spots this time last year.... But over winter, i checked and it wasn't right, so it was binned.

wasn't that so much, I wasn't arsed to post at the time

[JackyJoll]

One for road. One for off road.

Paddock stand. First gear. Spray for 10 seconds. Job done.

20210308_110803.jpg

Have you gone soft?

Aren’t you the who used to spray chain lube into a cup and brush it onto the chain?

[JackyJoll]

TBF the Bonnie still has unsealed chain so I'm contemplating what to do on it. Sadly a sealed one is too wide, but theoretically you could go down a size and fit a sealed one, but it means new sprocket sizes too of course and a bit of jiggery pokery to make them sit correctly.

Or I could buy a can of that stuff.

I have a non-O-ring IWIS chain on a similar-ish 650 and I get best results with steam cylinder oil. The chain has to be kept pretty oily or it will wear out fast.

[Couchy]

Before applying the chain lube I assume everyone cleans the chain first of any old lube and dirt that’s stuck to it ? I use a cloth and GT85,then a quick spin on the paddock stand and any chain lube I’ve got lying around. It’s usually a clear lube so I can still see the chains natural colour.

[JackyJoll]

Before applying the chain lube I assume everyone cleans the chain first of any old lube and dirt that’s stuck to it ? I use a cloth and GT85,then a quick spin on the paddock stand and any chain lube I’ve got lying around. It’s usually a clear lube so I can still see the chains natural colour.

Why do you assume that?

[KungFooBob]

Before applying the chain lube I assume everyone cleans the chain first of any old lube and dirt that’s stuck to it ? I use a cloth and GT85,then a quick spin on the paddock stand and any chain lube I’ve got lying around. It’s usually a clear lube so I can still see the chains natural colour.

Bollocks, you'll have sold any bike long before the chain needs lubing.

[Couchy]

Before applying the chain lube I assume everyone cleans the chain first of any old lube and dirt that’s stuck to it ? I use a cloth and GT85,then a quick spin on the paddock stand and any chain lube I’ve got lying around. It’s usually a clear lube so I can still see the chains natural colour.

Why do you assume that?

Surely spraying new lube over dirt is worse than not lubing the chain ?

[mangocrazy]

Before applying the chain lube I assume everyone cleans the chain first of any old lube and dirt that’s stuck to it ? I use a cloth and GT85,then a quick spin on the paddock stand and any chain lube I’ve got lying around. It’s usually a clear lube so I can still see the chains natural colour.

Why do you assume that?

Surely spraying new lube over dirt is worse than not lubing the chain ?

Greasy dirt is better than dry dirt...

[JackyJoll]

Surely spraying new lube over dirt is worse than not lubing the chain ?

No, a dry chain is the worst, in my non-O-ring experience.

[The Spin Doctor]

I've never used it (I tend to buy what's cheapest and not worry about it), but Wurth Dry Lube is supposed to be King of the Lubes.

https://www.sportsbikeshop.co.uk/motorc ... _rev/29605

On recommendation, I tried it years ago on a new chain. Rear wheel stays clean when it's dry and it washes off in about 30 seconds in the rain.

My new chain was squeakier than a squeaky thing and sagging nicely by the end of a day's wet training. I went back to my usual lube which is hypoid.

[The Spin Doctor]

Greasy dirt is better than dry dirt...

No it's not. The rate of wear between rollers and sprockets isn't really what you're worrying about.

Grit is what wrecks the X rings in double-quick time so dirty chain lube is not good.

The important grease is not what you spray on, but the stuff sealed in at the factory behind the X rings. On a modern chain, the lube simply keeps the X rings from wearing out too fast by keeping them moist and stopping the steel side plates rusting, and you do that best by avoiding getting grit in the lube.

That's why the old fashioned non-fling chain lubes that were so sticky they just turn into grinding paste aren't recommended by chain manufacturers any more.

[Nidge]

Thanks for all the input, I went with the WD40 chain wax in the end. Chin cleaned, adjusted, rust removed from side plates and wax applied. It certainly looks better than the black grimy stuff I had previously applied and hopefully will work as expected

[Cousin Jack]

That's why the old fashioned non-fling chain lubes that were so sticky they just turn into grinding paste aren't recommended by chain manufacturers any more.

I have no idea what Honda use from the factory (dry, non-fling waxy stuff), but IME it is crap. After 500 (mainly wet) miles spread over 4 months my new chain was as rusty as a fox's arse. I have never, ever, had a chain in such condition. I am not expecting a long life from it.

[Nidge]

I have no idea what Honda use from the factory (dry, non-fling waxy stuff), but IME it is crap. After 500 (mainly wet) miles spread over 4 months my new chain was as rusty as a fox's arse. I have never, ever, had a chain in such condition. I am not expecting a long life from it.

Sounds very similar to my experience with my Speed Twin-very disappointing to see rusty side plates after a couple of months

[Yorick]

On my previous GSXRs I gave the chain a quick squirt about every 500 miles and it rarely stretched. All track use.

This one has about 4,000 miles and have adjusted it twice. And side plates rust like buggery

I heard they changed it, but obviously for the worse. I think it's a bit narrower.

[Yorick]

Thanks for all the input, I went with the WD40 chain wax in the end. Chin cleaned, adjusted, rust removed from side plates and wax applied. It certainly looks better than the black grimy stuff I had previously applied and hopefully will work as expected

Egg? Or worse?

[The Spin Doctor]

I have no idea what Honda use from the factory (dry, non-fling waxy stuff), but IME it is crap. After 500 (mainly wet) miles spread over 4 months my new chain was as rusty as a fox's arse. I have never, ever, had a chain in such condition. I am not expecting a long life from it.

What you see on the outside is - AFAIK - designed to stop the chain rusting in shipment and storage.

If you rode 500 miles in the wet, why didn't you do something about it? Don't blame Honda!

[Mr. Dazzle]

TBF the Bonnie still has unsealed chain so I'm contemplating what to do on it. Sadly a sealed one is too wide, but theoretically you could go down a size and fit a sealed one, but it means new sprocket sizes too of course and a bit of jiggery pokery to make them sit correctly.

Or I could buy a can of that stuff.

I have a non-O-ring IWIS chain on a similar-ish 650 and I get best results with steam cylinder oil. The chain has to be kept pretty oily or it will wear out fast.

It's nominally supposed to oil itself isn't it, but that system is pretty pants by all accounts.

Steam cylinder oil? Is that literally something that goes on a steam engine, cause it sounds highly appropriate if it is. It'd even add to the old timey smells

Couchy and Spin are right BTW. On a sealed chain all the "main" lubrication is supposed to be done internally within sealed rollers. Chain lube isn't really a lube so to speak, it's just anti corrosion and anti seal drying. Dirt and grit will kill a chain way faster than anything else.

P.S. I would guess rusty chains on new bikes (compared to old ones) are down to environmental legislation on coatings and alloys.

[JackyJoll]

The various schemes to divert engine or primary trans oil to the rear chain always seem to give it more oil when it needs less.

The steam oil is messy. You’ve been warned!

[mangocrazy]

Greasy dirt is better than dry dirt...

No it's not. The rate of wear between rollers and sprockets isn't really what you're worrying about.

Grit is what wrecks the X rings in double-quick time so dirty chain lube is not good.

The important grease is not what you spray on, but the stuff sealed in at the factory behind the X rings. On a modern chain, the lube simply keeps the X rings from wearing out too fast by keeping them moist and stopping the steel side plates rusting, and you do that best by avoiding getting grit in the lube.

That's why the old fashioned non-fling chain lubes that were so sticky they just turn into grinding paste aren't recommended by chain manufacturers any more.

I wasn't being entirely serious. I had hoped the smiley might convey that.

I agree with most of what you say, but trying to keep road grit off a chain is simply a doctrine of perfection. My answer is a Scottoiler. That keeps the O/X/W rings lubricated and isn't overly sticky.