I have a couple of decent ones,it's me that's the issue.
Accents are 245 on ZPower
If it's you not the iron, watch a few YouTube vids and practice.
Get good because if you overcook it you can boil the tracks off the PCB. But really 80 percent of people can learn to solder.
Also don't sit there pressing a dry iron against a joint waiting for it to heat up while the components cook. Add a little solder to the tip as you touch it so that the added solder conducts the heat.
I maybe over egged the pudding with the solder thing,I'm not terrible,just not used to fine stuff,like pcbs,having worked with boys who were good,I became lazy and left it to them.
It costs me closer to £200 with my triples club discount,so I've bought another Accent. The plan is to send the old one back to Uwe Gottwald in Germany and get him to test it. From what folk tell me,it can take a looooong time. He's currently on holiday for the next month.
It'll be a right laugh if this doesn't solve it...
Spares are a good thing.
You can probably always sell the original as 'tested and OK'd by Herr Gottwald' to cut your losses.
Birthday celebrations have interfered with the spannering.
I bought a new Accent and fitted it. I've done around 40-50 miles since and the main issue of the misfire/indicator bollox appears to be solved. I say that hopefully,because I've had so many false fixes,I'm slow to believe.
There are a couple of other issues,which feel more carburettor related.
Starting from cold the bike fires without the help of the right cylinder,then after a while it wakes up and all is ok from that point,the bike rides and pulls fine.
When a similar thing happened with the H1a,it was down to a leaky float. Not this time. The cold running circuit is also clean as a whistle.
Idle speed likes to rise to 2k on occasion,symptoms of an air leak,or a sticking slide.
Anyway,ongoing and at least the bike is now useable.
Skub wrote: Sun Jul 20, 2025 5:23 pm
I bought a new Accent and fitted it. I've done around 40-50 miles since and the main issue of the misfire/indicator bollox appears to be solved.
Nice result on the accent I'm genuinely surprised.
Sticking slide: At least you can spin the carb top ring off without dismantling anything. Try swapping the spring with another cylinder to see if they are the same and if the issue moves. More likely to be cable binding if it's bent tight.
Crankcase seal shouldn't be a problem, there's plenty of meat on the joint faces. I would have thought base gasket or oil check valve on the bottom of the engine more likely to leak
Oh and check the carb clamps and inlet gasket (squirt a bit of wd40 at the joint to see if tickover changes)
Ian wrote: Mon Jul 21, 2025 4:45 pm
Nice result on the accent I'm genuinely surprised.
Sticking slide: At least you can spin the carb top ring off without dismantling anything. Try swapping the spring with another cylinder to see if they are the same and if the issue moves. More likely to be cable binding if it's bent tight.
Crankcase seal shouldn't be a problem, there's plenty of meat on the joint faces. I would have thought base gasket or oil check valve on the bottom of the engine more likely to leak
Oh and check the carb clamps and inlet gasket (squirt a bit of wd40 at the joint to see if tickover changes)
I'm betting on the throttle stops being bent as the cause of the high idle speed. Those skinny rods bend if you look at them wrong. Easy to do trying to get the slide assembly into the carb in the cramped conditions under the tank.
I straightened the throttle stop rods,though I think the cable routing was playing it's part in the rising idle speed. I took care and re-routed the throttle and choke cables,it's all very snug under the tank.
Yet again I blew out the cold running circuit on the right carb and the bike starts up on all three now. Test run done today and everything seems good.
It's pretty ironic that one of the few modern parts on an old bike was the bit to give all the grief!
When Uwe (Mr. Accent) came back from holiday on the 12th August he contacted me via email and I sent him the faulty pcb for testing and possible repair. In his own words.
Hi Davy,
received your ignition today.
You're right, the center transistor is broken. Can you please
check the
ignition coil? It seems to me that the
center coil has a short circuit or is very low-resistance. To destroy
the transistor, more than 25A would have
to have flowed, so a short circuit in the coil or perhaps in the
cable
to the ignition coil.
Let me know what's going on, and I'll repair the ignition.
Uwe
Since I replaced the centre coil in my quest for the truth,if the old one caused the issue,then hopefully that's eliminated the chance of a rematch.
So,Uwe is sending me out the repaired board and all it cost was a donation to his coffee fund
JackyJoll wrote: Fri Aug 22, 2025 7:28 pm
You can test the ohm reading through the LT coil terminals.
Both the primary and secondary resistance reading were within spec,but a static test sometimes doesn't give the full picture. If the original coil does have a fault maybe it only shows under load.
