revtothelimit - motorbike forum

weeksy wrote: Thu Jun 25, 2020 1:48 pm Tried the helmet on 5-6 times now and i'm just not quite feeling it, so it's toast.



Incoming is a Shoei Neotec after some discussions with a mate.

Don't you normally wear Arais? Does the whole arai/rugby ball Vs Shoei/football thing still exist? I like the comfort of Arais but found Shoeis uncomfortable on my forehead due to the fit.

Taipan wrote: Thu Jun 25, 2020 8:28 pm

weeksy wrote: Thu Jun 25, 2020 1:48 pm Tried the helmet on 5-6 times now and i'm just not quite feeling it, so it's toast.



Incoming is a Shoei Neotec after some discussions with a mate.

Don't you normally wear Arais? Does the whole arai/rugby ball Vs Shoei/football thing still exist? I like the comfort of Arais but found Shoeis uncomfortable on my forehead due to the fit.

My last 2 road helmets have been Shoei.

The only reason I tried 2 HJC this week was because my track helmet is HJC and fitted lovely. So i made the hopeful assumption they'd fit.

Interesting as I used to wear Arais but moved to HJCs so I'd be intersted to hear how you find this. I didn't get on with the fit but loved the sjngle button flip up operation of my old Shoei.

rusty wrote: Thu Jun 25, 2020 6:57 pm

Sadlonelygit wrote: Thu Jun 25, 2020 6:29 pm Fyi
The ecu flash gets the fan working at lower temps

Who's good for ECU flashes on these?

Weeksy- if you do end up wanting to get it flashed for any of the usual reasons (disable top-speed limiter, fuelling, turning fan on sooner, or disabling/enabling AIS, other stuff etc), then Simon Taylor( his business is S-Tec) down at Greenham came highly recommended to me by a couple of MT-10 guys- I went and saw him and chatted to him, never ended up getting mine done by anyone in the end , but if I had an MT again, I'd definitely use him- had the most trick MT10 I've seen , comes across real genuine and certainly seems to have heaps of experience with both 9s and 10s

Tricky wrote: Thu Jun 25, 2020 9:13 pm

rusty wrote: Thu Jun 25, 2020 6:57 pm

Sadlonelygit wrote: Thu Jun 25, 2020 6:29 pm Fyi
The ecu flash gets the fan working at lower temps

Who's good for ECU flashes on these?

Weeksy- if you do end up wanting to get it flashed for any of the usual reasons (disable top-speed limiter, fuelling, turning fan on sooner, or disabling/enabling AIS, other stuff etc), then Simon Taylor( his business is S-Tec) down at Greenham came highly recommended to me by a couple of MT-10 guys- I went and saw him and chatted to him, never ended up getting mine done by anyone in the end , but if I had an MT again, I'd definitely use him- had the most trick MT10 I've seen , comes across real genuine and certainly seems to have heaps of experience with both 9s and 10s

From what I read, he seems to have retired?

Yorick wrote: Thu Jun 25, 2020 7:04 pm

KungFooBob wrote: Thu Jun 25, 2020 6:18 pm Most modern bikes get super hot. The more power the more heat, also I suspect that cats in exhausts add to the overall heat output, they need to be hot to work properly.

WADR, I spent 15 years spanking sports bikes on track, harder than 99% of folk on her ever will. Never had trouble with heat. They are designed to cope.

Lol- I, Weeksy and couchie know of at least one ex-owner of the current Gixxaaaah 1000 model who had it burst into flames.
Guess he most have ridden it harder than you!

Flip ups are great, but I ain't comfortable riding like that. Fannying about for fuel, shop, chat great but once moving you'll have it down.

Dodgy knees wrote: Thu Jun 25, 2020 10:11 pm Flip ups are great, but I ain't comfortable riding like that. Fannying about for fuel, shop, chat great but once moving you'll have it down.

Yeah absolutely. It will spend most time down and if it's not comfortable for that, then it will be reboxed up and sent back to Sportsbikeshop.

I also need to make an apology to big red from here as I've been lined up to buy his exhaust for a couple of days, but have now decided to take another route which may get some frowns from you lot, but makes sense to me

Sadlonelygit wrote: Sat Jun 20, 2020 8:16 pm You'll need a 22mm pin for the headstock btw

Can only find a 21mm pin ? I've got the headstock stand though. But i could always use the ABBA stand and front wheel lift arm too


I did try my under the fork leg pronged paddock stand yesterday which works for the front, but not sure if the prongs get in the way for changing wheel, hence your suggestion ?

Well i'm going to sit here and admit, i need an intelligent grown up.

I was sitting thinking, "maybe i should try the shock" but for the life of me i can't get it off. The bottom bolt is blocked by the swingarm and no matter what i try i cannot do whatever this fella in the video is doing and move that bolt up to get the socket on it. About 8:00 into the vid.



So i cannot actually get the bolt/nut off or out to try. He seems to be using the RHS footrest as a pivot, but you know what, that doesn't seem to be flying for me and either i'm not being brave enough or something else, but it's not happening here.

You''ve disconnected the front bolt and moved the swinging arm yes? He is just propping the bike up with that foot rest to stop it tipping when he applies leverage.

Taipan wrote: Fri Jun 26, 2020 8:09 am You''ve disconnected the front bolt and moved the swinging arm yes?

Well that's the question, no is the answer. We thinking that removing the top bolt gives the extra clearance ?

https://www.fz09.org/threads/10-minute- ... oval.5258/

There's a multitude of other techniques in this thread... But i'm still struggling to see it. I can undo the top bolt and see if it helps things for sure.

weeksy wrote: Fri Jun 26, 2020 6:41 am

Sadlonelygit wrote: Sat Jun 20, 2020 8:16 pm You'll need a 22mm pin for the headstock btw

Can only find a 21mm pin ? I've got the headstock stand though. But i could always use the ABBA stand and front wheel lift arm too


I did try my under the fork leg pronged paddock stand yesterday which works for the front, but not sure if the prongs get in the way for changing wheel, hence your suggestion ?

Won't your 21 pin fit.? Tracer is 19mm . I used my 22 from the ktm and turned it down.

weeksy wrote: Thu Jun 25, 2020 9:17 pm

Tricky wrote: Thu Jun 25, 2020 9:13 pm

rusty wrote: Thu Jun 25, 2020 6:57 pm

Who's good for ECU flashes on these?

Weeksy- if you do end up wanting to get it flashed for any of the usual reasons (disable top-speed limiter, fuelling, turning fan on sooner, or disabling/enabling AIS, other stuff etc), then Simon Taylor( his business is S-Tec) down at Greenham came highly recommended to me by a couple of MT-10 guys- I went and saw him and chatted to him, never ended up getting mine done by anyone in the end , but if I had an MT again, I'd definitely use him- had the most trick MT10 I've seen , comes across real genuine and certainly seems to have heaps of experience with both 9s and 10s

From what I read, he seems to have retired?

Ah that's a shame, but thinking about it, must have been 2yrs ago or maybe more when I last spoke to him

weeksy wrote: Fri Jun 26, 2020 8:12 am

Taipan wrote: Fri Jun 26, 2020 8:09 am You''ve disconnected the front bolt and moved the swinging arm yes?

Well that's the question, no is the answer. We thinking that removing the top bolt gives the extra clearance ?

https://www.fz09.org/threads/10-minute- ... oval.5258/

There's a multitude of other techniques in this thread... But i'm still struggling to see it. I can undo the top bolt and see if it helps things for sure.

As I see it, take the top bolt out, then raise the rear wheel so the swinging arm lifts up and forward and the bolt should come into view. You'll need to hold the rear wheel up and he is using a jack stand to do that. if you dont remove the front or top bolt of the shock, you'll be trying to compress the shock to bring it up, whereas with the top bolt removed the shock just moves forward unhindered.

The stand under the peg is only for stability when trying to crack the bolt.

Well, i failed... 2 hours, no shock... Cannot for love, money or a tonne of sweat get the bottom/back bolt out/undone.

Taipan wrote: Fri Jun 26, 2020 11:02 am

weeksy wrote: Fri Jun 26, 2020 8:12 am

Taipan wrote: Fri Jun 26, 2020 8:09 am You''ve disconnected the front bolt and moved the swinging arm yes?

Well that's the question, no is the answer. We thinking that removing the top bolt gives the extra clearance ?

https://www.fz09.org/threads/10-minute- ... oval.5258/

There's a multitude of other techniques in this thread... But i'm still struggling to see it. I can undo the top bolt and see if it helps things for sure.

As I see it, take the top bolt out, then raise the rear wheel so the swinging arm lifts up and forward and the bolt should come into view. You'll need to hold the rear wheel up and he is using a jack stand to do that. if you dont remove the front or top bolt of the shock, you'll be trying to compress the shock to bring it up, whereas with the top bolt removed the shock just moves forward unhindered.

The stand under the peg is only for stability when trying to crack the bolt.

Yup, that's exactly what i did...

You're too far away from me to borrow mine, but has anyone local got one of these you can borrow?

https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/clarke- ... ct-wrench/

It's not strength or leverage, i can't actually access it.