revtothelimit - motorbike forum

I've been looking for a tank, but nothing out there at the moment for a 2001 bike. Mine falls between the T509 and 955i models and it is a bit of a bitsa with the parts bin. Makes it more interesting if finding the right part to fit! The Coils work, but look rather rough. I'd prefer a newer cleaner looking set, but I have to find them first!

Just bought some E10 safe fuel line O Rings. May as well play safe with such fluids.

Also titanium front caliper brake pad pins. I've seen them corrode all to badly and makes the pads stick. This is my one titanium bit that makes a difference in real life.

Just about there. Connected everything up and gave it a quick start. On the button once the fuel filled the filter and it fired up. Reset TPS and cleared all errors. All working nicely now. A bit of smoke because I squirted some cleaner into the oil breather vent as it was mucky.

I may give one of the connectors another turn if I can as it has a film of fuel at the edge.

Low fuel light is very pale as mentioned before, but I am a trip meter user, so not bothered by that. Will only fill it up once I am happy with the fuel line setup and the air filter is fitted.

LED Bulb fitted for Number plate light. Much clearer. Rear indicators another time. Fronts were the necessary ones as one as broken.

Air filter now fitted. O Rings have been posted today, so should arrive by Friday. The new LED Brake bulbs are also on the way, so that is another box ticked. Reduces load on the electrical circuit and so makes the bike easier to run. Getting excited to get this back on the road soon enough. I will find a Shell and treat it to some high RON fuel. Need to check the tyre pressures first though. Oil and filter change will be done next year as it was done in August.

I greased the sides of the filter so it would just slide in more easily and seal better.

O Rings fitted. Accelerator cable re-routed as it was a touch short going through the headstock. Now fine. All in all it is pretty much there. Just filled it up with Super Unleaded stuff, at £1.60 a litre....! Ouchies. But it works and the bike runs nicely.

At my Church.

A bit of research shows me that a 2001 Sprint RS has a throttle cable that is 11cm longer and will allow me to route it through the correct orientation. For £18 delivered for a new teflon coated shielded cable, no brainer!

Back from a 35mile ride, just a bimble over to my brother's place and back through various windy Kent roads. Bike is fabulous and will definitely stay put for quite a while. What I like is that it is easy to ride, but does get moving if you need it to, with a rather glorious howl too. Apparently the bike is loud? Not so sure myself, but hey ho. I've also ordered a -1 front sprocket after getting an offer from the seller, £13.50 delivered for a 17t sprocket, proper rubber mounted one as well. I do need to adjust the chain and clean it, so I will do that after the sprocket arrives. LED Brake light bulbs fitted, brighter and instantly on as well. All coming along nicely.

Lower gearing is always a good mod. Think I've done that on all but 2 of my bikes.

Supermofo wrote: Thu Dec 16, 2021 3:49 pm Lower gearing is always a good mod. Think I've done that on all but 2 of my bikes.

I did it front and back on all my GSXRs. Can never have too much mentalness

Yorick wrote: Thu Dec 16, 2021 4:10 pm

Supermofo wrote: Thu Dec 16, 2021 3:49 pm Lower gearing is always a good mod. Think I've done that on all but 2 of my bikes.

I did it front and back on all my GSXRs. Can never have too much mentalness

Yup I went -1 on the front and +2 on the back of my Blade it was entertaining

Been in the garage giving the bike a wipe down. Comes up okay. Will start changing engine bolts when I have the time. Also do the titanium pad pins as well with a smidge of copper grease. I can check the pads at the same time. Must put it on the battery tender as well before I forget! It is getting a lot colder now.

the_priest wrote: Tue Dec 21, 2021 1:06 pm Been in the garage giving the bike a wipe down. Comes up okay. Will start changing engine bolts when I have the time. Also do the titanium pad pins as well with a smidge of copper grease. I can check the pads at the same time. Must put it on the battery tender as well before I forget! It is getting a lot colder now.

After an ex-member of this parish reported wear of the pin-holes on his brakes, I always prefer high-temp silicon grease for brake applications (ie pins and back of pads).

Cheers, I have some of that left over from the BMW stuff I have!

the_priest wrote: Tue Dec 21, 2021 2:14 pm Cheers, I have some of that left over from the BMW stuff I have!

All it needs is a smear.

Rockburner wrote: Tue Dec 21, 2021 1:20 pm

the_priest wrote: Tue Dec 21, 2021 1:06 pm Been in the garage giving the bike a wipe down. Comes up okay. Will start changing engine bolts when I have the time. Also do the titanium pad pins as well with a smidge of copper grease. I can check the pads at the same time. Must put it on the battery tender as well before I forget! It is getting a lot colder now.

After an ex-member of this parish reported wear of the pin-holes on his brakes, I always prefer high-temp silicon grease for brake applications (ie pins and back of pads).

I use ceramic on the backs (looks like toothpaste) and silicone on the pins (looks like vaseline).

Honestly though, I doubt it makes much difference on my commuter bike Silicone is better than copper at staying put IME, thats the main reason.

Bought a front mudguard that is not cracked and a damaged rear seat cowl. Both need rubbing down and painting to gloss black. £55 for both, so worth a punt in my books.

Sometimes you just look at the right time in the right place and it all comes together. I've just collected a fairing cowl, seat cowl, seat pads, frame and rear bodywork and OEM exhaust for £140 off FaceBook marketplace thing. Contacted him, said I'd be there within the hour and paid up. Now I have the final bits to finish the bike off. Just need to figure out how to connect the fairing light as I cannot see the loom connection. One thing at a time.

The fairing light probably wasn't available on all model years...my (earlier) T509 was never available with one. Could be the case your bike just doesn't have the loom connections?

There is a loom plugin to share a connection for power. I've got to try and source that or make one for myself. So not impossible to do.

Right, that loom splitter is not longer available. So off to Amazon to find the right connectors and I'll make one up with some wires I have lying around. One male and two female connectors and it should work fine. I'll have to whip it off and start again, but that is easy enough to do now that I have figured out how it all fits together.

The rear subframe is the big winner for me as I now don't have to weld a pillion footpeg lug back on. And it is in much nicer condition, as is the rear fairing itself. I will swap this over when it is warmer weather as it requires a full strip down of the rear end, and will allow me to give the bike a good clean at the same time, not quite Weeksy levels, but a good clean nontheless. Rear shock will be given a clean as well then and the rear swingarm.

It is nice to have all the bits I need to finish the bike of to what I would like it to look like and for a reasonable sum of money as well. I need to get a box of disposable gloves as well, as this is grubby work too!