Rev Counter Metal Repair

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GuzziPaul
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Rev Counter Metal Repair

Post by GuzziPaul »

Noticed the rev counter on my Le Mans was shaking more than usual. Stopped and had a closer look. The two finger nuts had come off and the rev counter was only held in by the cable.
The captive bolts are loose, one has totally broken away.
tach small.jpg
tach small.jpg (62.68 KiB) Viewed 1949 times
Wondering what my options are. Could I solder them or epoxy?
I may have to do it from the outside as opening up the case, I think involves peelling the glass bevel back.
cheb
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Re: Rev Counter Metal Repair

Post by cheb »

I'd be minded to try epoxy metal, possibly cutting a groove or two into the stud to give the epoxy something to grip onto.
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Horse
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Re: Rev Counter Metal Repair

Post by Horse »

cheb wrote: Sun Jun 14, 2020 8:36 am I'd be minded to try epoxy metal, possibly cutting a groove or two into the stud to give the epoxy something to grip onto.
Yes, I'd concur. Actually, I'm lying, I have no idea at all..

But just wanted to suggest changing the thread title to 'RTTL metal repair' ;)
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Re: Rev Counter Metal Repair

Post by hilldweller »

It used to be called Plastic Padding Chemical metal, now Teroson Chemical Metal, it's very good.

But is it good enough ? If there is room I'd try and add some extra support some 6mm metal shaped to fit between the two bolts or even a nut, 6mm, 8mm oozed on to the PP to spread the load.

By coincidence a tub of the above arrived last week, I can't live without some of it in stock.
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Re: Rev Counter Metal Repair

Post by iansoady »

I've always found jb weld to work well for this sort of thing.
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GuzziPaul
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Re: Rev Counter Metal Repair

Post by GuzziPaul »

iansoady wrote: Sun Jun 14, 2020 12:39 pm I've always found jb weld to work well for this sort of thing.
I wondered about JB Weld but thought that was just another vesion of expoxy (with fine metal particles?). So epoxy seems to be the consensus then rather than solder.
There isn't a lot of room around the stud to give any more support due to the mount. I've lost the finger bolts so will have to replace with some nylocs I should have in my nut and bolt supply.
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Re: Rev Counter Metal Repair

Post by DefTrap »

Glue would probably work. JB (done well) is very effective.

Or make up a new bracket and rivet it to the Speedo casing.
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Re: Rev Counter Metal Repair

Post by GuzziPaul »

Had a go making a little jig to hold the stud in place while it was biening epoxyed. Unfortunately with my jiggling the stud fell into the case so I've had to take the tacho to bits, which involves carfully uncrimping the bezel. it does have the advantage though of been able to apply the epoxy on the inside so should be a better fix.
reved to the limit.jpg
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Did it first thing this morning so I'll have a look at lunch time, one advantage of working from home.
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Re: Rev Counter Metal Repair

Post by hilldweller »

You'd be much better getting it brazed now.
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Re: Rev Counter Metal Repair

Post by GuzziPaul »

Brazing I would hvae to take it somewhere and wait/pay. Whereas with epoxy I've done it and its back on the bike ready to go.
Rev1.jpg
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Stud on the left with the smaller ammount of epoxy is the repaired one, most of the epoxy is on the inside and pulled into place and held. Stid on the right was still attached but loose the extra epoxy is reinforcing.
Rev2.jpg
Rev2.jpg (87.26 KiB) Viewed 1891 times
Rev counter on the right in the photo now held on with a couple of nylocs. On the speedo in the left of the photo you can just see the two finger nuts (either side of the speedo cable) which are what came undone on the rev counter and are somewhere between here and Bury St Edmunds. Just got the bikini fairing to put back on.
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Re: Rev Counter Metal Repair

Post by iansoady »

Just one minor point - I wouldn't have used nylocs as they will put more force on the epoxy than necessary, especially when you come to undo them. But it's done now......
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Re: Rev Counter Metal Repair

Post by GuzziPaul »

Did wonder about that as I was tightening it up :hmmm: :hmmm: but reckoned if it was to break as I was tightening it obviously wasn't a good enough repair. Also didn't have any ordinary M5s in my nut collection.