Torx and allen keys

[cheb]

As I approach a insignificant date in my life I've decided I need a better set of torx and allen keys. I've read of the Park ones and they seem good but what else is out there? I couldn't see anything that suited on Halford's site. Recommendations on where to buy them would be good too, I'd prefer not to use Amazon if possible.

I'm looking for tee handled ones and I've no need for a wall hanger nor stand.

[weeksy]

Facom. They're rather pretty.

[Mr. Dazzle]

Most factories I've ever worked in / been involved with have Kennedy ones.

That is probably cause they're cheap on RS Components though

[Yorick]

Both these sets are great.

20210317_111105.jpg (884.12 KiB) Viewed 1042 times

[David]

I had to buy a 7mm Facom, and yes it's pretty. But 7mm? Only ever used it once

[demographic]

Bondhus. T handle allen (or torx) wrenches.
The T is heavy enough to spin nicely in the hand.
I only have three of the Allen ones so far but they are very nice.

And I don't have this yet but will soon.
T handle with interchangable bits and this happens to come with JIS screwdriver bits.
https://www.primetools.co.uk/product/la ... otorcycle/

[Cousin Jack]

Another vote for the Bondhus ones.

[mangocrazy]

Whatever ones you decide upon, get the ball-ended version(s). Makes such a difference to usability and ability to get at the awkward bastard fasteners that are essential to remove. I really like Facom, but they are Facom spendy...

Primetools as often as not come out cheapest.

[weeksy]

Don't want or need ball ends, I've got 2 sets. I want the best of the best.

[Skub]

I have a mix of Bondhus and Britool,they've been solid tools for a very long time. I think Facom absorbed Britool quite some time ago,didn't they?

Damn you Weeksy,I don't need to have those Facom twirlers on my watch list....

[weeksy]

I have a mix of Bondhus and Britool,they've been solid tools for a very long time. I think Facom absorbed Britool quite some time ago,didn't they?

Damn you Weeksy,I don't need to have those Facom twirlers on my watch list....

They won't be for long if there's only 1 set left lol

[demographic]

I have a mix of Bondhus and Britool,they've been solid tools for a very long time. I think Facom absorbed Britool quite some time ago,didn't they?

Damn you Weeksy,I don't need to have those Facom twirlers on my watch list....

Facom and Britool were owned by Stanley (or at least the company that owned them) a while ago, dunno if they still are.

I have a Britool set of sockets I bought a few years ago and am not at all blown away by the quality of them. I'll not be buying any more.
As opposed to Britool and Facom a few years earlier which were excellent.

Oh and IIRC you might as well take the BRIT out of BRITOOL cos I don't think it applies any more.

[Skub]

Facom and Britool were owned by Stanley (or at least the company that owned them) a while ago, dunno if they still are.

I have a Britool set of sockets I bought a few years ago and am not at all blown away by the quality of them. I'll not be buying any more.
As opposed to Britool and Facom a few years earlier which were excellent.

Oh and IIRC you might as well take the BRIT out of BRITOOL cos I don't think it applies any more.

I have an old set of Britool combination spanners that are still in good order,but I hear Britool are another maker that ain't wot they used to be.

[demographic]

Whatever ones you decide upon, get the ball-ended version(s). Makes such a difference to usability and ability to get at the awkward bastard fasteners that are essential to remove. I really like Facom, but they are Facom spendy...

Primetools as often as not come out cheapest.

Yes, no, maybe.
The ball end ones are good but wear the fasteners far more than the non ball end ones.
You can find they round off the internal hex much more and if the fastener is already worn can slip.

Smaller contact area, higher loading on the faces and more likely to slip.
Or sometimes just break the ball end off.

[mangocrazy]

Whatever ones you decide upon, get the ball-ended version(s). Makes such a difference to usability and ability to get at the awkward bastard fasteners that are essential to remove. I really like Facom, but they are Facom spendy...

Primetools as often as not come out cheapest.

Yes, no, maybe.
The ball end ones are good but wear the fasteners far more than the non ball end ones.
You can find they round off the internal hex much more and if the fastener is already worn can slip.

Smaller contact area, higher loading on the faces and more likely to slip.
Or sometimes just break the ball end off.

I think you're missing the point somewhat. You only use the ball end when you have an inconveniently sited fastener that requires going in at an angle. When that is the case, quite simply nothing else will do. But when you have unimpeded access and you are just screwing the fastener in, there is little torque on the ball end. The only time there is real torque on the ball end is when you are either undoing the fastener at an angle or doing final tightening. And to be honest, in that situation I'd be using a ball rnd socket bit (and torque wrench if tightening up), not a T-bar driver.

A ball end T-driver is just all round a nicer tool to use.

[demographic]

I think you're missing the point somewhat. You only use the ball end when you have an inconveniently sited fastener that requires going in at an angle. When that is the case, quite simply nothing else will do. But when you have unimpeded access and you are just screwing the fastener in, there is little torque on the ball end. The only time there is real torque on the ball end is when you are either undoing the fastener at an angle or doing final tightening. And to be honest, in that situation I'd be using a ball rnd socket bit (and torque wrench if tightening up), not a T-bar driver.

A ball end T-driver is just all round a nicer tool to use.

Thats where the Yes, No, Maybe bits come in.
I have and use the ball end T handle Bondhus ones, theyre often nicer to use.
I also have some Allen bits that go into a socket, theyre better at putting a decent bit of torque on if a fastener is stuck.

Generally I'm not a fan of putting allen bolts on everything and would rather have proper bolt heads but thats just personal preference. Both of my bikes were made in 1989 (although one is a 90 model) so pretty long in the tooth.

Its not so much the torque required to put the bolts in in when nice and clean and so on. Its the torque required to remove em after a few years on the bike.

[Nidge]

Bondhus. T handle allen (or torx) wrenches.
The T is heavy enough to spin nicely in the hand.
I only have three of the Allen ones so far but they are very nice.

And I don't have this yet but will soon.
T handle with interchangable bits and this happens to come with JIS screwdriver bits.
https://www.primetools.co.uk/product/la ... otorcycle/

FFS you’ve just cost me £40.... an imperial set is winging its way to me now.... where should I send the bill?

[demographic]

FFS you’ve just cost me £40.... an imperial set is winging its way to me now.... where should I send the bill?

Send it wherever you want ; )

[MingtheMerciless]

Park T Torx used here, even though I’ve got a lovely set of FACOM Allen keys, nearly 30 years old, I fear the lure of a matching Park Allen set is irresistible.

[mangocrazy]

I think you're missing the point somewhat. You only use the ball end when you have an inconveniently sited fastener that requires going in at an angle. When that is the case, quite simply nothing else will do. But when you have unimpeded access and you are just screwing the fastener in, there is little torque on the ball end. The only time there is real torque on the ball end is when you are either undoing the fastener at an angle or doing final tightening. And to be honest, in that situation I'd be using a ball rnd socket bit (and torque wrench if tightening up), not a T-bar driver.

A ball end T-driver is just all round a nicer tool to use.

Thats where the Yes, No, Maybe bits come in.
I have and use the ball end T handle Bondhus ones, theyre often nicer to use.
I also have some Allen bits that go into a socket, theyre better at putting a decent bit of torque on if a fastener is stuck.

Generally I'm not a fan of putting allen bolts on everything and would rather have proper bolt heads but thats just personal preference. Both of my bikes were made in 1989 (although one is a 90 model) so pretty long in the tooth.

Its not so much the torque required to put the bolts in in when nice and clean and so on. Its the torque required to remove em after a few years on the bike.

I think we're in broad agreement here. If I'm torquing up or unscrewing an allen bolt and I have full access, I'll use a non-ball ended driver. If it needs the ball headed driver, that's what I'll use. I'm ambivalent on the merits of allen vs. hex head bolts. The main thing is to avoid fasteners made of chinesium, as I'm sure you'd agree. My '88 bike is a VFR750 and that has small flanged hex head bolts on all the engine cases, which I've always thought was a nice touch.

I'm currently rebuilding a 1980 Lancia Beta 2 litre engine and as the cylinder head bolts are 12.9 HT Allen heads I've used Allen bolts on the rest of the external cam box fixings (not all HT I hasten to add), just for looks as much as anything. They shouldn't suffer much in the way of corrosion or road debris there.