Bike resurrection thread

[cheb]

I've been asked by a mate to get his Yamaha PW90 going.

This is what it looks like:





The only work done so far has been to remove the chain and free the brakes so it's easier to remove.

[weeksy]

Eeeee good lad. Lots of pics please.

[cheb]

This is what the chain looks like before going into some warmed citric acid. It took some persuasion to get it to curl up this far:



Seat and tank off:



Ready to get at the carb:



I squirted some WD40 into the carb and kicked it over and it spluttered enough to show it's runnable. The oil looks clean too.

[cheb]

The carb:



And it's off:

[weeksy]

This is what the chain looks like before going into so warmed citric acid. It took some persuasion to get it to curl up this far:



Seat and tank off:



Ready to get at the carb:



I squirted some WD40 into the carb and kicked it over and it spluttered enough to show it's runnable. The oil looks clean too.

You're planning on using the chain?

[cheb]

The carb top is stuck to the cable, there's penetrant on it and I'll bother at it tomorrow.



Pretty. That's what you get from pulling and turning back and forth.



The throttle tube is properly stuck on. Again I'll leave it overnight with penetrant:

[cheb]

Eeeee good lad. Lots of pics please.

I'll do my best. The plan is to get it to be usable for no outlay. The chain is knacked I'm sure but a good soak in citric will get the rust off and then another in paraffin to lube it. I even managed to save the split link.

I've spotted one sheared fastener so far, the lower of the two that hold the sprocket cover in place.

[maccecht]

Fortune favours the brave methinks. Good luck with it Cheb.

[cheb]

It might look terrible but my experience is that with a soupçon of care most of the fasteners will undo without too much fuss. A bit of lube and lots of pressure on the screwdriver. Allen heads are the worst, lots of torque needed and they undo with a bang.

[cheb]

A bit of research suggests it might be a TTR90, not a PW.

[Wossname]

I noticed that research too!

[cheb]

Looking back at the photos I see what you mean. I hadn't actually noticed the TTR on the tank, it was the lack of parts on Ebay that made me start looking.

Boring, but true: You can tell the sheltered side of a corroded item up here, it's the side with more corrosion as it stays wetter longer. You can dry washing when it's raining too, the air being drier. The St Kildans knew this and built cleitan, small drystone huts to store food and equipment.

I'm even boring myself now.

[cheb]

The throttle tube is off and the handlebar end cleaned up with a wire wheel until tolerable.

The carb is now in the ultrasonic cleaner and we'll see how that goes.





I'm using this in the cleaner, because it's what I have. If it doesn't work I'll use washing soda. About 50ml in a litre ish of water at about 50 degrees centigrade.

[Mr Moofo]

Has it been scuttled at the bottom of Scarpa Flow for the last 60 years ?

[cheb]

No, just left outside up here. It's a brutal climate for corrodible materials. Plenty of salt, water and the clean air means lots of UV light too.

[G.P]

Is that a 14" rear wheel? My kids TW125 has that size, the rims are steel but not chromed and the tyres are a bit spendy - hope its in decent nick?

[Potter]

No, just left outside up here. It's a brutal climate for corrodible materials. Plenty of salt, water and the clean air means lots of UV light too.

Same here, the UV kills anything plastic and the humidity results in rust that seems to grow overnight.
It's a difficult place to keep anything nice.

[cheb]

The tyres seem good, both have plenty of tread and have stayed inflated.

I've solved the stuff not staying nice problem by starting off with shitters.

[cheb]

The crappy little thing lives. I put the carb back together and refitted it, put some fuel in the tank and fired it up. It ran well until the fuel line cracked it two and dumped the fuel on the floor.

I've also stripped the front end and got it all working, the brake needed a bit of declagging and the worst of the rust on the stanchions was removed with a file and wire wool. Not pretty but it works.

The tedious part was the back brake being seized, twas time consuming getting it apart, but it's now soaking in penetrant to free the cam off. At worst it can go back together without it, I can make up a spacer to suit.

[JackyJoll]

For fuel and oil hoses I have best success with black rubber petrol injection hose meant for cars.