The bargain Himalayan

[A_morti]

On the BMW's if you let air into the abs pump, you had to use the service tool to cycle the pump to bleed it properly. Alternatively, cycling the abs by skidding the wheel was meant to work, but when it's the front brake you generally want to avoid using the abs!

[A_morti]

Maybe the steel lines weren't fitted well, perhaps the copper washers were reused or doubled up? Can help to tap the banjo bolts with a hammer to squish the washers a bit more, and retorque.

[Bigjawa]

Took the suspension linkage and drop links off the bike to clean them up and give them a regrease - the drop links were the worst and were pretty dry with quite a bit of scoring to the faces of the needle bearing innners. Gave them a gentle whizz to remove the worst ridges and repacked. Should get another year out of them

My ones were worse, they showed absolutely zero evidence of grease whatsoever, there must have a been a grease shortage in Chennai that week.

My front brake was fine, my rear was crap, the anodising on the piston was corroded and the thing kept sticking, I looked at getting stainless pistons made but in the end, after I found out there was supposed to be a recall in place and neither the local dealer, nor RE themselves wanted to know, I sold the bike after other problems started showing up.

[Ditchfinder]

Seen better days

[Gregor]

Bluetooth teeth

[Ditchfinder]

Luckily, previous owner had left another new front sprocket in the panniers that came with the bike

[A_morti]

Luckily, previous owner had left another new front sprocket in the panniers that came with the bike

It won't last long if you leave that chain in place. But you already knew that.

[A_morti]

Seen better days

Customer states: clutch slipping, please investigate.

[Ditchfinder]

Chain just looks like a bit of surface rust. Fit on rear sprocket and new front one looks ok

[A_morti]

Chain just looks like a bit of surface rust. Fit on rear sprocket and new front one looks ok

You're joking, I assume?

In case not:

If that chain has done that to that sprocket, it's past it. The pins will be worn, which will give the impression of the chain being stretched. This means it's at risk of snapping and even if not, it will eat that new sprocket as every time a tooth goes between the rollers, the distance isn't correct, and that causes wear.

Or, if the chain was changed last time without changing the sprocket, then it was a false economy. That sprocket will have been slipping under the chain and worn the rollers.

Take the new sprocket, get the rest of the set, and change it rather than risk having the chain snap and eat the crankcase.

[Ditchfinder]

The rear sprocket looks like I it has minimal wear, could I get away with just a chain?

[A_morti]

Without seeing it, it's hard to say. Best advice is to change the whole lot as it wears as a set. There's pretty much no occasion not to, except maybe if you rode through salt water and a nearly new chain rusted to shite with minimally worn sprockets still on the bike. Maybe that's where you are, can't say without seeing it.

[Ditchfinder]

Fair enough, question is now do I go RE oem for £50 or Hitchcocks alloy sprocket + DID chain for £140....

[Ditchfinder]

Went with the standard steel sprocket and a DID x-ring chain. Another £100 thrown into the moneypit

We're up to £1350 now including what I paid for it.

[A_morti]

Would be almost as much for a big paperweight, if the chain exited the bike via the crankcase. Good choice lad.