Electrical question.
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Re: Electrical question.
Just had a right good look at the pic again.
As it is, this is a joint box.
The cable with the new colours are bottom entry, which suggests to me it goes to the twin socket, and is a new addition to the original wiring
The old colours are back entry so was perhaps a radial socket as opposed to a socket on a ring main
I’d pop the cover off the consumer unit for a look see. Red & black wires = old wiring
Is there any RCD protection for all circuits? Any re-wireable fuses? Any cartridge fuses? Any mcb’s?
My money is the cable size is 2.5 mm,
It looks to me it’s a DIY job
Final answer
As it is, this is a joint box.
The cable with the new colours are bottom entry, which suggests to me it goes to the twin socket, and is a new addition to the original wiring
The old colours are back entry so was perhaps a radial socket as opposed to a socket on a ring main
I’d pop the cover off the consumer unit for a look see. Red & black wires = old wiring
Is there any RCD protection for all circuits? Any re-wireable fuses? Any cartridge fuses? Any mcb’s?
My money is the cable size is 2.5 mm,
It looks to me it’s a DIY job
Final answer
Re: Electrical question.
And should be metal, as it's inset. So, I agree - deffo a DIY job.
If you start messing with it @Taipan for the sake of a couple of quid, get that back box swapped too.
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Re: Electrical question.
Three things spring to mind:
1. How accessible is the offending back box and if the answer is anything less than difficult, I’d be questioning the Landlord’s EICR as that should have been coded and rectified?
b. Why is the lever partially open on that Wago and is this causing any arcing / heat?
iii. IIRC it is a rental property and you should leave it alone
Even though I studied electrical and electronic engineering at uni around 1000 years ago, I’m becoming less inclined to do my own electrical jobs especially when I hear about the number of hoops my nephew is jumping through to become a qualified spark.
1. How accessible is the offending back box and if the answer is anything less than difficult, I’d be questioning the Landlord’s EICR as that should have been coded and rectified?
b. Why is the lever partially open on that Wago and is this causing any arcing / heat?
iii. IIRC it is a rental property and you should leave it alone
Even though I studied electrical and electronic engineering at uni around 1000 years ago, I’m becoming less inclined to do my own electrical jobs especially when I hear about the number of hoops my nephew is jumping through to become a qualified spark.
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Re: Electrical question.
Not sure of the build year but I'd guess at 1990s onwards? By the front door is a consumer unit with labelled switches, so i'll maybe see if anything odd is listed on there? The guy who previously owned it fitted the kitchen, so i'm guessing something he did. As soon as i saw different colours, i bailed on doing anything without finding out more. As we all know, water you can see, gas you can smell, but electricity is a silent assassin!Wscad wrote: ↑Sun Oct 20, 2024 4:00 pm Just had a right good look at the pic again.
As it is, this is a joint box.
The cable with the new colours are bottom entry, which suggests to me it goes to the twin socket, and is a new addition to the original wiring
The old colours are back entry so was perhaps a radial socket as opposed to a socket on a ring main
I’d pop the cover off the consumer unit for a look see. Red & black wires = old wiring
Is there any RCD protection for all circuits? Any re-wireable fuses? Any cartridge fuses? Any mcb’s?
My money is the cable size is 2.5 mm,
It looks to me it’s a DIY job
Final answer
I know a lot of people in various trades, but no sparkies. I cant really ask a mate to ask their mates to do me a favour and I hate asking anything of anyone anyway, so I appreciate your and everyone else's advice here.
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Re: Electrical question.
Its very accessible if you slide the fridge/freezer out. I probably caught the Wago flap when I looked to see what was what. Its not a rental, its my Sons first time buy so i have to sort it.Silly Car wrote: ↑Sun Oct 20, 2024 5:31 pm Three things spring to mind:
1. How accessible is the offending back box and if the answer is anything less than difficult, I’d be questioning the Landlord’s EICR as that should have been coded and rectified?
b. Why is the lever partially open on that Wago and is this causing any arcing / heat?
iii. IIRC it is a rental property and you should leave it alone
Even though I studied electrical and electronic engineering at uni around 1000 years ago, I’m becoming less inclined to do my own electrical jobs especially when I hear about the number of hoops my nephew is jumping through to become a qualified spark.
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Re: Electrical question.
Probably a cooker socket. Only problem with fitting a 3pin socket is that it will have a dedicated 32A breaker so if you plug anything dodgy into it, it will take 32A before the breaker trips. Not a problem really unless you have a habit of fitting "nevablow" fuses into your devices (i.e. a chunk of nail).
I would look out for a "cooker" breaker in the distribution box, fit a socket to the offending outlet (assuming you're happy to wire sockets), plug in a random power thing and see if it turns off at the breaker.
I would look out for a "cooker" breaker in the distribution box, fit a socket to the offending outlet (assuming you're happy to wire sockets), plug in a random power thing and see if it turns off at the breaker.
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Re: Electrical question.
If you get a sparkie in it might be worth asking him/her to check out the whole system and make sure everything is labelled properly etc. (Especially if the previous occupant was a DiY'er).Taipan wrote: ↑Sun Oct 20, 2024 9:49 pm
Not sure of the build year but I'd guess at 1990s onwards? By the front door is a consumer unit with labelled switches, so i'll maybe see if anything odd is listed on there? The guy who previously owned it fitted the kitchen, so i'm guessing something he did. As soon as i saw different colours, i bailed on doing anything without finding out more. As we all know, water you can see, gas you can smell, but electricity is a silent assassin!
I know a lot of people in various trades, but no sparkies. I cant really ask a mate to ask their mates to do me a favour and I hate asking anything of anyone anyway, so I appreciate your and everyone else's advice here.
(When the chap wired and connected up our cabin he put a new consumer unit (the old one had fuses), beefed up the main earth connection and tested everything. Found a dodgily wired (DiY) pair of sockets on the kitchen island and corrected it. Labelled all the RCDs properly. The cabin job took most of the day, the rest of it a couple of hours).
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But certainty is an absurd one.
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Re: Electrical question.
Fair point - I've lived in an old house for so long I forgot stud walls were a thing
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Re: Electrical question.
You're forgetting the plug has a fuse in, ring mains are 32A protected in pretty much every houseScrewdriver wrote: ↑Mon Oct 21, 2024 4:12 am Probably a cooker socket. Only problem with fitting a 3pin socket is that it will have a dedicated 32A breaker so if you plug anything dodgy into it, it will take 32A before the breaker trips. Not a problem really unless you have a habit of fitting "nevablow" fuses into your devices (i.e. a chunk of nail).
I would look out for a "cooker" breaker in the distribution box, fit a socket to the offending outlet (assuming you're happy to wire sockets), plug in a random power thing and see if it turns off at the breaker.
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Re: Electrical question.
Given that this may have an effect on any insurance claim, is it not worth getting an electrician to check the place?
In addition: given that it appears there were open wires visible and he's just moved in: shouldn't the assessor who checked the place prior to the sale have included something in their report?? (unless your son is buying without a mortgage?)
In addition: given that it appears there were open wires visible and he's just moved in: shouldn't the assessor who checked the place prior to the sale have included something in their report?? (unless your son is buying without a mortgage?)
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Re: Electrical question.
IME though -Rockburner wrote: ↑Mon Oct 21, 2024 11:45 am In addition: given that it appears there were open wires visible and he's just moved in: shouldn't the assessor who checked the place prior to the sale have included something in their report?? (unless your son is buying without a mortgage?)
- 'assessors' are a bit useless. Not prepared to move anything to get a better look, certainly not going to do anything that might involve getting their chinos dirty. If it was hidden by something he'd never have found it. If not hidden he'd have made a note of it because all assessors want to find 'something' right? The assessor we had seemed to be there solely to verify the house actually existed and was broadly in line with the sale price
- it might have happened after tha assesor had been - the previous owner could have ballsed it up when they were moving out. When the previous owner moved out of a place I bought they kindly took all the light bulbs with them ( ) yanking a light fitting in the process, which threw the trip as soon as we tried to turn the light on. Nice. And they managed to crack the bath sometime between purchase and handover.
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Re: Electrical question.
No. You're not reading my post. I specifically address that issue.Couchy wrote: ↑Mon Oct 21, 2024 10:00 amYou're forgetting the plug has a fuse in, ring mains are 32A protected in pretty much every houseScrewdriver wrote: ↑Mon Oct 21, 2024 4:12 am Probably a cooker socket. Only problem with fitting a 3pin socket is that it will have a dedicated 32A breaker so if you plug anything dodgy into it, it will take 32A before the breaker trips. Not a problem really unless you have a habit of fitting "nevablow" fuses into your devices (i.e. a chunk of nail).
I would look out for a "cooker" breaker in the distribution box, fit a socket to the offending outlet (assuming you're happy to wire sockets), plug in a random power thing and see if it turns off at the breaker.
Read it again.
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Re: Electrical question.
When is that ever not the case? Maybe he should call the fire brigade to check the rest of the house. Bring in a buildings inspector to make sure the walls are safe. Get a roofer in to check for leaks and inspect the gutters and drainage just in case...Rockburner wrote: ↑Mon Oct 21, 2024 11:45 am Given that this may have an effect on any insurance claim, is it not worth getting an electrician to check the place?
Looks like a perfectly good outlet to me and while I may be somewhat cavalier in my approach, the OP is looking for practical suggestions.
"Anyone" can wire a plug or socket and if it's a cooker socket (I bet my bottom dollar) there's a good chance it will have its own dedicated 32A breaker.
So an easy test in the real world is to stick a socket on it and see if theres a label on the consumer unit and see what that switches off. Again, with a mains device plugged in, you can test if it works without having to poke around with multimeters.
It's a particularly good test in the real world because if anything goes wrong eg. the breaker doesn't switch off that named socket, you have identified an issue which does need addressing. God forbid switching off the "cooker" breaker also switches off some of the lights!
If you identify a problem then yes of course, bring in an expert.
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Re: Electrical question.
I think I would first establish the power is off to the aforementioned open box before attempting to fit a 13amp socket outlet. So it will require a multimeter or some test to find the circuit breaker first. You probably meant to say this.Screwdriver wrote: ↑Mon Oct 21, 2024 12:48 pmWhen is that ever not the case? Maybe he should call the fire brigade to check the rest of the house. Bring in a buildings inspector to make sure the walls are safe. Get a roofer in to check for leaks and inspect the gutters and drainage just in case...Rockburner wrote: ↑Mon Oct 21, 2024 11:45 am Given that this may have an effect on any insurance claim, is it not worth getting an electrician to check the place?
Looks like a perfectly good outlet to me and while I may be somewhat cavalier in my approach, the OP is looking for practical suggestions.
"Anyone" can wire a plug or socket and if it's a cooker socket (I bet my bottom dollar) there's a good chance it will have its own dedicated 32A breaker.
So an easy test in the real world is to stick a socket on it and see if theres a label on the consumer unit and see what that switches off. Again, with a mains device plugged in, you can test if it works without having to poke around with multimeters.
It's a particularly good test in the real world because if anything goes wrong eg. the breaker doesn't switch off that named socket, you have identified an issue which does need addressing. God forbid switching off the "cooker" breaker also switches off some of the lights!
If you identify a problem then yes of course, bring in an expert.
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Re: Electrical question.
No I did not include the obvious need to switch off power at the mains before commencing electrical work any more than I would remind anyone to breathe or pick up a screwdriver from the handle.
Nobody ever got fired for buying IBM is a simple epithet which works here too. The OP asks for electrical advice and the best advice is to get an electrician. A rather obvious suggestion which I need not even ask if the OP considered, it's always best to get a professional.
What's the best way to cook a steak? Get Gordon Ramsey to do it.
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Re: Electrical question.
God no - James Martin!! Much better lookingScrewdriver wrote: ↑Mon Oct 21, 2024 2:43 pmWhat's the best way to cook a steak? Get Gordon Ramsey to do it.
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