Ducati Multistretta 1098S

[the_priest]

I love the simple fact that you are doing it for the joy of doing it, the end result is important, but the journey is the fun part! Really enjoying this thread!

[millemille]

Just got back from picking up the finished tank protector...

[G.P]

I haven't commented for a while on this but still loving the thread.
I Really admire he approach in terms of cost and time - its the only way you can properly enjoy it IMO.
I'm tracking cost on my Ducati project but only for interest and the ability to answer the inevitable questions - mind you mine is just a simple resto.

Nice tank protector too!

[Bigyin]

Just got back from picking up the finished tank protector...

Lovely....got a spare one for my Multi ???

[millemille]

Final assembly progressing well...









The tank is still in primer but the tank protector, just slid in place, looks awesome...

[millemille]

The standard plastic Multistrada tank has a quoted capacity of 20 litres.

The aluminium tank is about 1.5mm larger in all dimensions as it formed round the original tank and the plastic tank structure is about 10mm thick compared to the 1.5mm of the aluminium. I've removed a fair bit of capacity to get the tank to fit over the rear cylinder head, but added a fair bit because the 1098 air box is not as tall as the original Multistrada one with the snorkel air intake on top so the tank could be made deeper under the filler cap.

Been giving the tank an etch cleaner soak inside to key it for the sealant and washing out the cleaner, in the bath at home natch.

So I thought I'd take the opportunity to measure the capacity of the new tank.

Somewhat surprised to get 32 litres in it.....

[Mr. Dazzle]

How many litres leaked out the bottom while you were measuring it?

[millemille]

How many litres leaked out the bottom while you were measuring it?

Well, now you come to mention it.....

[millemille]

Got the front sprocket nut tightened up with the big boy, mains powered, "raddle gun", all of the ugga-dugga's...



...and then the foot peg, case saver, sprocket cover and shift mechanism all bolted on...



I would like to stick a quick shifter on, but not sure it's possible to get one so short?



Got a bit of an issue with the bottom chain run being too close to the exhaust...



...but I'm not too bothered as there's a 42T sprocket on the back. Standard 1098 gearing is 15/39 but I went larger on the back as I don't particularly need the gazillion miles and hour, or more, top speed of the sports bike. I've got a 40T spare so I'll stick that on tomorrow and see if that lifts the chain enough. Otherwise I can go for a 14T on the front and then go even smaller on the back....

Started work on the airbox. Crank case breather hose spigot bonded in place...



..and throttle bodies positioned on underside of airbox and then mounting holes spotted and drilled...



...and then inlet trumpets secured in place...



.. it's a tight fit...



.. the inlet hole is marked and chain drilled...



...and filed to shaped...



..et voila!

[millemille]

After several people on fb recommended one, I have bought a Healtech "Quickshifter Easy". A nifty little bit of kit, for the 1098 you replace the shift lever pinch bolt - the one that clamps the shift lever onto the selector shaft - with a longer on and the sensor is clamped around that bolt.

[millemille]

Chain clearance is sorted, without the need to change sprockets. Span the rear hub eccentric through 180 degrees and added a link to the chain.

Throttle bodies and trumpets are in the airbox...







...but I'm not happy with it. The throttle bodies and trumpets are not sealing perfectly to the air box, inside and out, because the carbon is not perfectly flat and smooth. I think I'll cut some discs of aluminium sheet and trap them between the throttle bodies and trumpets, and these will seal properly, and open up the holes in the bottom of the air box and then bond the aluminium discs to the underside of the airbox.

[Mr. Dazzle]

If you do, make sure you abraded it well otherwise it may not stay stuck for long! The carbon is probably still carrying the residue of the tool release agents which are specifically designed to not stick.

I'd be tempted to stick it with something quite flexible too so it's not prone to cracking. A polyurethane or silicone would work nicely IMO, with the added benefits they seal well and cure at room temp. Polyurethane glass adhesive should be easy to find.

[millemille]

If you do, make sure you abraded it well otherwise it may not stay stuck for long! The carbon is probably still carrying the residue of the tool release agents which are specifically designed to not stick.

I'd be tempted to stick it with something quite flexible too so it's not prone to cracking. A polyurethane or silicone would work nicely IMO, with the added benefits they seal well and cure at room temp. Polyurethane glass adhesive should be easy to find.

I was going to use sikaflex 221....

[Mr. Dazzle]

Sounds about perfect.

[A_morti]

That chain run would make me uncomfortable. Our first reminder that you forgot to tension the chain could be a blowing exhaust !

[Mr. Dazzle]

Is it also gonna clash when the wheel is on full droop? Looks the bike is on a rear wheel stand so its still got a bit of rebound movement? In reality if it clunked against the exhaust on the extrmees of travel it wouldn't cause immediate disaster. If it was rubbing continuously you'd hear it?

Airbox is inside out I think? Its traditional to have the shiny tool face on the inside and the ropier B Surface on the outside for better flow. I doubt it matters too much here though

[millemille]

Is it also gonna clash when the wheel is on full droop? Looks the bike is on a rear wheel stand so its still got a bit of rebound movement? In reality if it clunked against the exhaust on the extrmees of travel it wouldn't cause immediate disaster. If it was rubbing continuously you'd hear it?

Airbox is inside out I think? Its traditional to have the shiny tool face on the inside and the ropier B Surface on the outside for better flow. I doubt it matters too much here though

The chain run has been sorted, it's now no closer to the exhaust than it was as standard.

It's six of one, half a dozen of the other on c/f air boxes, I'll see your photo and raise you a photo of the air box from my ex works (XRO9, ex Frankie Chili) Suzuki SRAD 750 WSB bike....



...and the official Suzuki race kit, ERO, SRAD 750 air box fitted to my bitsa SRAD 750 race bike...



...both with the B-side on the inside.

[Mr. Dazzle]

The only reason I can think of you'd have the shiny side on the outside is the fact it uses cheaper tooling. Oh, and it looks better

[millemille]

Picked the tank up last week and stuck the carbon fibre bits on....



The finish is great. It looks like plain silver but when you get close up you can see the brushed metal marks...



Started building the various bits like filler cap, breathers and fuel pump and fitted the tank on the bike...

[millemille]

Initial fit wasn't great, it looks like the tank has done some shifting and twisting while it was being painted and it doesn't fit as it did before. Several hours of very cautious bending and checking, taking great care to not over bend the metal and crack the paint, and it fits a whole lot better.

There's a few issues still to overcome. On full lock to the left the top yoke has clearance off the tank...



..but on full lock to the right the the top yoke fouls the tank...



I hope that by sticking a small bottle jack across the front of the tank and giving it some beans I can spread the sections far enough apart to give the clearance.

There's also fouling between the underside of the tank and the corner of the rear cylinder cover...



.but some gentle application of percussive maintenance should knock a small dent into the tank that will give the needed clearance.