Monster rear brakes - help!!

[Yorick]

Well, I got the pistons back and the pads in

They were very stiff to push. I know I'm not that strong, but I had expected to push them back with my fingers!!

I'll have a look and see if I think I can strip and clean the master cylinder. I haven't pressed the brake lever yet as will wait, maybe, till I'm ready to bleed the brakes!!

If it's no better after a test ride, I'll look at the master cylinder

Well done

I have two steel tyre irons where I bent a kink about 2" from one end... I've got a strong rubber band around the point where they are kinked to hold them together back to back. So you put them in between the OLD pads side by side and then squeeze the long side together, the other end forces the pads and pistons apart... gives you lots of mechanical leverage.

Cool thinking

[Yorick]

Well, I got the pistons back and the pads in

They were very stiff to push. I know I'm not that strong, but I had expected to push them back with my fingers!!

I'll have a look and see if I think I can strip and clean the master cylinder. I haven't pressed the brake lever yet as will wait, maybe, till I'm ready to bleed the brakes!!

If it's no better after a test ride, I'll look at the master cylinder

Well done

I have two steel tyre irons where I bent a kink about 2" from one end... I've got a strong rubber band around the point where they are kinked to hold them together back to back. So you put them in between the OLD pads side by side and then squeeze the long side together, the other end forces the pads and pistons apart... gives you lots of mechanical leverage.

Cool thinking

[The Spin Doctor]

Cool thinking

Twice

[Noggin]

Well, the rear wheel is back in and caliper fitted. But, on stands, the brakes don't seem to be any better. Will take it for a little spin later when things are quieter!

I have a plan to head to the valley once it's insured to talk to a mechanic a friend recommended, just to see what he'd charge to bleed the rear brake and if that doesn't work, to check the master cylinder. I doubt it would take someone that knows how very long, so hopefully it won't cost much!

The bleed nipple, in situ, is just too awkward for me (even without spaziness it would be a challenge!!) and with my lack of knowledge, would probably take a ridiculous amount of time!!

So, insure then head to the local bike place and see what the nice man says!!

[The Spin Doctor]

Did you clean the rear disc with a degreasing agent? There can be a surprising amount of oily build-up that you can't see, particularly in the holes...

[Noggin]

Did you clean the rear disc with a degreasing agent? There can be a surprising amount of oily build-up that you can't see, particularly in the holes...

I did. Cleaned with a brush too.

Haven't ridden it so it's possible that it will be fine - crossing fingers!!

[MyLittleStudPony]

New pads are always not that good at first, you need to bed them in with some gentle use. Then they get much more grippy.

[Noggin]

New pads are always not that good at first, you need to bed them in with some gentle use. Then they get much more grippy.

I'll be giving it a run around the block later

[A_morti]

The pads will be pretty close to flat (in the engineering sense of word) whereas a well-used brake disc won't be. It'll take more than around the block for the pads to form to the contours of the disc.

[gremlin]

The pads will be pretty close to flat (in the engineering sense of word) whereas a well-used brake disc won't be. It'll take more than around the block for the pads to form to the contours of the disc.

And that's where the axle grease comes in. Fills the gaps betwixt pad and disc, increasing grippyness.


DISCLAIMER - This a joke too. As per the previous disclaimer, don't put grease on your pads, for the love of God!

[Rockburner]

The pads will be pretty close to flat (in the engineering sense of word) whereas a well-used brake disc won't be. It'll take more than around the block for the pads to form to the contours of the disc.

And that's where the axle grease comes in. Fills the gaps betwixt pad and disc, increasing grippyness.


DISCLAIMER - This a joke too. As per the previous disclaimer, don't put grease on your pads, for the love of God!

You've done it now....

[Noggin]

The pads will be pretty close to flat (in the engineering sense of word) whereas a well-used brake disc won't be. It'll take more than around the block for the pads to form to the contours of the disc.

And that's where the axle grease comes in. Fills the gaps betwixt pad and disc, increasing grippyness.


DISCLAIMER - This a joke too. As per the previous disclaimer, don't put grease on your pads, for the love of God!

DISCLAIMER - This a joke too. As per the previous disclaimer, don't put grease on your pads, for the love of God!

You've done it now....

I do love you lot. I know I'm a mechanical novice but even I know that it's only WD40 for the pads!! LOL

[Noggin]

The pads will be pretty close to flat (in the engineering sense of word) whereas a well-used brake disc won't be. It'll take more than around the block for the pads to form to the contours of the disc.

Unfortunately there is no pressure on the lever for the rear brake. I'm heading down tomorrow (cos the forecast is good!!) to go see a mechanic and see if he'll bleed them for me. If that doesn't work, then I guess it's the master cylinder, so if he's feeling nice,he might not charge too much to look at that too.

But hopefully it's just that it needs bleeding!!! (Crossing fingers!)

[gremlin]

I'm heading down tomorrow

Let's hope you can stop!

[Noggin]

I'm heading down tomorrow

Let's hope you can stop!

The front brakes are fine I've not had a back brake forever, so just don't ride in the wet!

Well, if I can get down the mountain before it rains, that's fine, cos coming back up is just fine on front brakes only!!

[G.P]

IME, the rear brakes on this vintage of Ducati are all completely useless. I've had 2 x 900SS and 1 x mk1 multistrada with the same rear set up and you can't tell if they are on or not! Same with friends Monsters and SS's
Once you've got them set up right, just don't expect to be able to lock the rear with a dab of you foot

[A_morti]

Unfortunately there is no pressure on the lever for the rear brake.

Pretty safe bet you need more than bleeding.

You probably need either a seal kit if it's salvageable or if there's corrosion in the bore then maybe a replacement. You won't know either way until you get it apart. It's about £30 for seals or about £70 for a whole new master cylinder. If you are not doing the work yourself you'll pay the difference in labour for cleaning the old master and swapping the seals, so it's probably cheaper to just bite the bullet and go straight in with the new master cylinder as opposed to paying labour for trying to save what's there, which may not even be worth saving.

https://www.ebay.fr/itm/144955462106

[Count Steer]

I'm heading down tomorrow

Let's hope you can stop!

The front brakes are fine I've not had a back brake forever, so just don't ride in the wet!

There's a whole Survival Skills type discussion on the use of the rear brake in wet conditions right there.

(I spent the early part of my riding life stamping on the rear brake of a Lambretta because the front brake didn't really work. When I got bikes where the front brake worked the rear nearly died of boredom (although some were linked - but I'd got out of the 'lock up the back wheel to stop' habit by then ).

[Noggin]

IME, the rear brakes on this vintage of Ducati are all completely useless. I've had 2 x 900SS and 1 x mk1 multistrada with the same rear set up and you can't tell if they are on or not! Same with friends Monsters and SS's
Once you've got them set up right, just don't expect to be able to lock the rear with a dab of you foot

I've been told that a lot!!!! "They all do that you know" I am not expecting miracles, would just like a smidge of rear braking rather than zero. If it's possible!!

Unfortunately there is no pressure on the lever for the rear brake.

Pretty safe bet you need more than bleeding.

You probably need either a seal kit if it's salvageable or if there's corrosion in the bore then maybe a replacement. You won't know either way until you get it apart. It's about £30 for seals or about £70 for a whole new master cylinder. If you are not doing the work yourself you'll pay the difference in labour for cleaning the old master and swapping the seals, so it's probably cheaper to just bite the bullet and go straight in with the new master cylinder as opposed to paying labour for trying to save what's there, which may not even be worth saving.

https://www.ebay.fr/itm/144955462106

I've been half expecting to need more. If I can get the guy to bleed them for me at least I'll know the next step I could probably do the seals on the caliper in my apartment, but TBH, given there's probably only 6 weeks of riding left before winter, I'll aim to take the caliper off at the beginning of snow and have a go at servicing it (and maybe even the master cylinder) at home. Until then, only go down the mountain when it's dry !! LOL

There's a whole Survival Skills type discussion on the use of the rear brake in wet conditions right there.

(I spent the early part of my riding life stamping on the rear brake of a Lambretta because the front brake didn't really work. When I got bikes where the front brake worked the rear nearly died of boredom (although some were linked - but I'd got out of the 'lock up the back wheel to stop' habit by then ).

I've never been a heavy user of the rear brake so I agree with most people saying it's not 'needed'. But if you've ever done Alps (or Pyrenees) mountain riding, then you'll have more appreciation of the feeling that I kinda need the rear for the wet!! It's not something I'd use often at all, but slow control and approaching downmountain hairpins in the wet, it's kinda handy!! Stopped somewhere I thought was flat today to check my phone for messages (to meet a mate) and realised it wasn't flat and with no rear brake, I needed to stand up and 'hold' the bike with the foot pegs on my shins so that it didn't roll back!!

Once I'm down in the valley or coming home it's really no problem. Going down in the dry, no problem. In the wet I really do not feel confident braking towards hairpins only with the front!! (Probably more in my head because of my metal shoulder that i can't afford to fuck up than really needing it!)


Anyway. It's fine in the dry, so I have about a week (evenings and weekends after Monday) of good forecast to play with

[Demannu]

From memory, and experience, I'd replace/repair the master cylinder. I adjusted the pushrod fully up and it made bugger all difference to the lever pressure.
€15 gets you a Chinese mityvac from temu which allows you to bleed your own brakes