FAZ 600 - Time Warp 2004 Yamaha FZ6SA

[A_morti]

So the TPS does go from 16 to 100 like it's supposed to, which I had checked before.
But then when you know what you are looking for, you can see more, right?
It actually goes 16, 15, 17... 100.
If it's already glitchy now when the bike is cold (it started and ran just fine right after recording that), then it seems pretty likely to me that this is the problem when it's hot.

I've dropped the dealer a note to see if the recall for this part reached our tiny island, and if so was it carried out on this bike. Never know, maybe they get to do it for me.

[A_morti]

There was indeed a recall, and the local dealer will honour it. Sweet!

[Taipan]

Result!!

[A_morti]

In a reenactment of polishing the brass on the Titanic, I decided to finally fit the LED indicators I've had since Christmas. They came OEM with a later Yamaha. They fit the fairing holes perfectly, albeit the rubber is harder and they put up more of a fight than the originals.

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I didn't want to modify the original loom nor cut the original indicators, so I got some adapter cables and cut the special connector off them to solder in.

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Brilliant

[A_morti]

Bit of light soldering action (boom tish).

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There are resistors in the wiring which apparently must be kept even if you use an LED relay. They reduce the voltage from up-to 14.5v down to whatever the indicators can handle.

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[A_morti]

Surgery on the TPS is scheduled for tomorrow.
Fingers crossed!

[Skub]

Surgery on the TPS is scheduled for tomorrow.
Fingers crossed!

Thoughts and prayers.

[A_morti]

Took the FZ to the dealer this morning. The erratic idle fault was very much in evidence.
New indicators work fine at idle and low revs <3k, but hyperflash at higher revs. Will try a different relay.
Dealer just called, they didn't get to my warranty job today. Cliffhanger stuff, eh.

[A_morti]

I just collected the bike from the dealer after it had a new TPS under warranty (they're not calling it a recall).

First short ride suggests that the TPS was the problem as the bike now runs and idles great. It even seems to be smoother at on/off throttle than before, I think.

[A_morti]

New indicators work fine at idle and low revs <3k, but hyperflash at higher revs. Will try a different relay.

The comically large LED relay (there's nothing but air inside) from the mule works properly on the Fz, and fits better since it has the clip for the rubber strap.

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Meanwhile the LED relay from the Fz works fine in the mule, and fits better since it's a little bit smaller.

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I'll take the small wins

[A_morti]

Mini_Morti has been complaining about the rear seat on FAZ.

The seat is fine, the backbox is fine, the hand grip is fine... but that rear cowl is bulbous to get around the relays at exactly the point where a passenger (small or full sized) wants to put their ankles.


Apparently putting the exhaust under the seat resulted in compromises. Who knew, eh?

So I found some of these things secondhand in Slovakia of all places:

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They're 200€ new, and looked perfect for what I needed.
https://www.hepco-becker.de/en/lowering ... fazer.html


I paid 50€ shipped. They arrived in fair condition with scratches and without any bolts (those are Triumph front caliper bolts) ... but at the price, I was quite willing to dig in the spares box and paint them silver to match the frame myself.

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Except...

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Turns out they are for the fz6 S2, and will not fit my S1. Even though the seller's image showed the parts fitted to an S2, I hadn't seen that coming because Hepco & Becker don't list a part for the S2 model, so I assumed it would be the same. I now reckon they've just sold all their S2 stock and aren't interested in making more for a 15-year old bike.

I was looking at drilling a hole where the blue dot is and adding a spacer to clear the subframe, trimming down the tab and painting it all up nice... but when I went to get the drill out, that dot is a lie and in reality the hole needs to be right on the very edge of the tab. Those bolts not only hold my kid up but also attach the rear subframe, to which the rear shock is mounted. So redrilling is a bust, I don't have an acetylene torch to heat them enough to bend (they 100% will not bend cold, I've already tried jumping up and down on them) and anyway I'm not certain it would reach, so they will get punted on.

I'm unwilling to spend 200€ on getting the right ones from H&B, so I've ordered these guys instead:
https://www.bruudtcnc.de/shop/product_i ... fazer.html


They move the peg in one of 10 adjustable angles at a radius of 65mm, and give 58mm more width. Normally I'd consider that "58mm" the result of clumsy workmanship, but in this case the "out" might help solve the problem just as much as the "fore".

At a bargain 140€ it's too much money for what it is, but I couldn't find a Chinese copy like I could for the mule, and at least it'll fit any future Yamaha I might own. I've been really impressed by the build quality of the FZ and rather like the Tracer 700, so maybe one day they'll go on one of those.

Pic just for attention and so you know that I've not had a stroke and decided the next model after looks good.

[ChrisW]

They don't do that when they're fitted, do they???!!!

[A_morti]

FAZ did let me down last week.

12.7v on the battery after a charge and letting the surface charge dissipate should be enough, but she wasn't having it. The temp gauge would flash to "hot", suggesting to me that the voltage was dipping too much to get a plausible reading.

One false start by charging the battery using the "recovery" setting which gave it about a week's worth of undeath.

New battery then and, with over 13v showing, she was good to go. She cranks faster than ever so I suspect the old battery wasn't happy at spending most of its 2.5 year lifespan sat on a trickle charger.

Interestingly (maybe?) the guy at the shop basically refused to sell me a lithium battery for the bike, as he said they'd had a few back and turns out they're not good on older bikes with shunt regulators. He'd still sell it to me, but couldn't warranty it in that case. So it got an Exide AGM battery instead.

[A_morti]

In the meantime since getting the CBR 250 I find myself wondering what the old fz is for.

Aside from that, it'll drain the battery to under 50% (according to the super accurate 25/50/75/100 LEDs on the charger) in a week, which I'm attributing to the immobiliser delete. I have a plan to rewire that so it doesn't get power with the key off, but motivation has been lacking for the Fz.

[A_morti]

I've still not ridden the poor FZ in ages. Seriously thinking to let her go now, as it's a shame to keep it as just a garage ornament.

I tried rewiring the immobiliser delete to only get power with the ignition on:
Fairing infills off, tank propped up, airbox off, find the gizmo, rewire the gizmo.
It worked - bike started and ran. Success!
Airbox on, tank lowered carefully back in, fairing infills back together.
And... the bastard won't start...

Turns out it'll start without the permanent live connected, but only once. So:
Fairing infills off, tank propped up, airbox off, find the gizmo, rewire the gizmo.
It worked - bike started and ran. Success!
Airbox on, tank lowered carefully back in, fairing infills back together.
So that was a fun couple of hours in the garage for absolutely nothing XD

I've ordered a different emulator which doesn't need a permanent live feed. I'd feel much happier selling it once that's fitted, and I know it won't eat the battery to a potentially irrecoverable 0% within a couple of weeks.