2018 MT07 front calliper rebuild

[formula400]

Right. I put new pads in the MT, the pistons are a bit minging,
The brakes work fine but squeal a little when light breaking.

I’ve got 2 options
1. Strip the callipers my self and clean, fit new everything
2. Send them off to this company and they strip clean and re build. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/263277525677 ... media=COPY

Now it going to work out almost the same cost but obvs option 1 is more involved, how hard it it to split a calliper and rebuild?
Also option 1 the rebuild kit comes with stainless steel pistons so I am guessing they will be better than OEM?

Cheers

[DefTrap]

It's a "how much is your time worth" issue.

It's not hard to do

[Skub]

It's a "how much is your time worth" issue.

It's not hard to do

Wot e sed.

You'll have to bleed the system yourself anyway,so essentially it's servicing a caliper you are paying for.

[wull]

It’s piss easy

[Count Steer]

My 2d. You're a top chef, why would you want to be a mechanic too? Let somebody else do it. Would you want a mechanic doing your patisserie?

[Screwdriver]

You have 3 options.

1. Do it yourself
2. send them off
3. Both!

You could buy a cheap set of calipers in good-ish nick. Send them off for service You can still ride the bike. Then when you get the newly refurbished ones swap them over and (assuming they're better!) either sell yours or refurbish them yourself and then sell them as "refurbished".

If you were extra sneaky, you could include a snapshot of the rebuild invoice, say they were professionally refurbished, don't mention the "professional" was a head chef...

Either way you avoid the days/weeks without a bike and if the numbers work out, recoup some of the cost of the rebuild(s) from someone who also wants to swap out their brakes without losing time. Plus of course, you get to play at being a mechanic/chef.

[DefTrap]

Of-using-the-service ...

PROS:
You don't have to do the splitting, and remove the pistons for inspection and to get at the seals (not an awful job but but you do need either the right tools of the right technique, this is the bit most people screw up or avoid doing - it's -always- worth doing).
You don't have to do the cleaning, it's a filthy job - your digits may never recover - your flan will taste of Dot4.
You don't have to source any parts.
If there is any hamfistedness, it's their problem (Putting back the seals is fiddly and there is a chance of tearing them, similarly when refitting the pistons).
It comes back lovely and refreshed.

CONS:
You still have to remove the caliper.
50 quid plus getting it there.
Waiting ...
Most likely you don't even need new pistons, let alone new seals.
You still have to refit the caliper.
You still have to prime, bleed (this is the second most likely part to get screwed up, where tools or technique is key)

[ChrisW]

Here's the relevant page from the workshop manual in case it helps in deciding.

[formula400]

It’s piss easy

cool

It's a "how much is your time worth" issue.

It's not hard to do

Wot e sed.

You'll have to bleed the system yourself anyway,so essentially it's servicing a caliper you are paying for.

sweet

My 2d. You're a top chef, why would you want to be a mechanic too? Let somebody else do it. Would you want a mechanic doing your patisserie?

I like that idea

You have 3 options.

1. Do it yourself
2. send them off
3. Both!

You could buy a cheap set of calipers in good-ish nick. Send them off for service You can still ride the bike. Then when you get the newly refurbished ones swap them over and (assuming they're better!) either sell yours or refurbish them yourself and then sell them as "refurbished".

If you were extra sneaky, you could include a snapshot of the rebuild invoice, say they were professionally refurbished, don't mention the "professional" was a head chef...

Either way you avoid the days/weeks without a bike and if the numbers work out, recoup some of the cost of the rebuild(s) from someone who also wants to swap out their brakes without losing time. Plus of course, you get to play at being a mechanic/chef.

decent idea

Of-using-the-service ...

PROS:
You don't have to do the splitting, and remove the pistons for inspection and to get at the seals (not an awful job but but you do need either the right tools of the right technique, this is the bit most people screw up or avoid doing - it's -always- worth doing).
You don't have to do the cleaning, it's a filthy job - your digits may never recover - your flan will taste of Dot4.
You don't have to source any parts.
If there is any hamfistedness, it's their problem (Putting back the seals is fiddly and there is a chance of tearing them, similarly when refitting the pistons).
It comes back lovely and refreshed.

CONS:
You still have to remove the caliper.
50 quid plus getting it there.
Waiting ...
Most likely you don't even need new pistons, let alone new seals.
You still have to refit the caliper.
You still have to prime, bleed (this is the second most likely part to get screwed up, where tools or technique is key)

your making lots of sense

[formula400]

Here's the relevant page from the workshop manual in case it helps in deciding.

that has terrified me

[KungFooBob]

The squeal is the back of the pads vibrating against the pistons.

Usually stopped by applying a bit of copper slip. You did apply some when you changed the pads?

Cheaper than a calliper rebuild.

[formula400]

The squeal is the back of the pads vibrating against the pistons.

Usually stopped by applying a bit of copper slip. You did apply some when you changed the pads?

Cheaper than a calliper rebuild.

I did not apply any. but I have just ordered some,
reason I want them done is the pitons were a bugger to move and they look pitted/rusty/shite

[wull]

There usually is anti squeal plates and or anti rattle springs to stop the above, they are designed to stop the lad from rattling about.

[KungFooBob]

You could do a half arsed clean.

1. Callipers off the mounts and the pads out.
2. Put a spanner in the slot where the disc goes. Pump the pistons out (the spanner should stop them 'popping' out).
3. Give what you can see a good clean with what ever you've got, maybe rub them with a bit of high number wet and dry.
4. Push the now clean pistons back in, then reassemble (with copper slip).

[A_morti]

Gold spot calipers have aluminium pistons. Those tend to do much better against corrosion.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/145075783644 ... media=COPY

[formula400]

so might have a slight change of plans, just spoke to FWR ( need a new set of tyres) for £15 per caliper they will remove pistons and clean the up. seems like a bargain to me.

[Screwdriver]

Yeahbbut how much are they charging to change tyres these days.

Shop right next door to me will do the job for you. PM for details.

[DefTrap]

so might have a slight change of plans, just spoke to FWR ( need a new set of tyres) for £15 per caliper they will remove pistons and clean the up. seems like a bargain to me.

Sounds too good to be true? I wouldn't do it for that.

[Demannu]

As has been said, squeal is pad not caliper related.
If FWR are cleaning the pistons, that'll not be a strip, just pump out a bit and the apprentices' toothbrush on the pistons. You'll use £15 of brake fluid refilling the system!

[formula400]

As has been said, squeal is pad not caliper related.
If FWR are cleaning the pistons, that'll not be a strip, just pump out a bit and the apprentices' toothbrush on the pistons. You'll use £15 of brake fluid refilling the system!

Yeah noted, the squeal is only 1 issue, the main is getting them decent.

Also tyres are wedge. £385 for Michelin Road 6 fitted.