Battery for Total Loss Ignition

[Le_Fromage_Grande]

Anyone know anything about what battery is best for a total loss ignition system on a race bike, it's got to be pretty big because I'm not bump starting an 200KG 1170 Kawasaki that I can only just reach the ground on.

[Yorick]

Just use a normal battery and have optimate style wiring to hook it up to charger at home and/or car battery at the track.

[KungFooBob]

When I raced an RD with a total loss system I just had a tray of three normal batteries with quick change bullet connectors, when the voltage started to drop, I'd swap them between races.

[Le_Fromage_Grande]

When I raced an RD with a total loss system I just had a tray of three normal batteries with quick change bullet connectors, when the voltage started to drop, I'd swap them between races.

I was thinking of doing that, it needs to be able to run for 20 minutes, I've got rechargeable NOCO battery to start it from cold, but it needs to be able to start if I stall it, or get held up in the pit lane (it's air cooled and gets hot when stationary with the engine running)

[Yorick]

When I raced an RD with a total loss system I just had a tray of three normal batteries with quick change bullet connectors, when the voltage started to drop, I'd swap them between races.

I was thinking of doing that, it needs to be able to run for 20 minutes, I've got rechargeable NOCO battery to start it from cold, but it needs to be able to start if I stall it, or get held up in the pit lane (it's air cooled and gets hot when stationary with the engine running)

Check the voltage.
Leave it running 20 mins.
Check voltage.
Try the starter.

[Le_Fromage_Grande]

When I raced an RD with a total loss system I just had a tray of three normal batteries with quick change bullet connectors, when the voltage started to drop, I'd swap them between races.

I was thinking of doing that, it needs to be able to run for 20 minutes, I've got rechargeable NOCO battery to start it from cold, but it needs to be able to start if I stall it, or get held up in the pit lane (it's air cooled and gets hot when stationary with the engine running)

Check the voltage.
Leave it running 20 mins.
Check voltage.
Try the starter.

That'd be great if it didn't need a new battery, it'll run for 15 minutes of my NOCO battery thing after starting, you know when it's going to die because the rev counter dies before the ignition.

[Yorick]

I was thinking of doing that, it needs to be able to run for 20 minutes, I've got rechargeable NOCO battery to start it from cold, but it needs to be able to start if I stall it, or get held up in the pit lane (it's air cooled and gets hot when stationary with the engine running)

Check the voltage.
Leave it running 20 mins.
Check voltage.
Try the starter.

That'd be great if it didn't need a new battery, it'll run for 15 minutes of my NOCO battery thing after starting, you know when it's going to die because the rev counter dies before the ignition.

Get a new battery

[Le_Fromage_Grande]

Yes, I was wondering what was the best type to buy.

[Yorick]

Yes, I was wondering what was the best type to buy.

[Le_Fromage_Grande]

I've done some research and it seems a deep cycle lead acid battery is the best way to go, lithium would work but they're easy to damage by over charging or letting them run too low.

[Mr. Dazzle]

Someone on my LinkedIn just became a "Lead Battery Engineer" at WAE working in Formula E.

I had to read it a couple of times

[slowsider]

Someone on my LinkedIn just became a "Lead Battery Engineer" at WAE working in Formula E.

I had to read it a couple of times

Is it like pencils and water?