Globe / curved shelving…

[Screwdriver]

I agree with much of what Yambo said.
Mark the curves out using a long length of ply, (or more likely two bits screwed together to get the large radius) then do the slots whilst its still just straight strips.so its simpler to get the slots perpendicular to the length.
Do the slorlts with a router in a crosscutting jig.
Rough the curves out with a bandsaw/jigsaw.
Finish them off with a router on that length of ply you marked the curves out with.
Perhaps using a circular guide bush and compression bit if your feeling flush.
I'd be tempted to do the slots in a few different sizes but not too many. Findiig the exact centre for perfect length slots for too many sizes will get on yer tits

Yes I suppose you only need to do one "perfect" piece and use that as the template for all the others. Once you've got one good example, everything else just falls into place, including the slots.

My newfound "gung ho" attitude suggest whatever you decided to do, just do it! Overthinking has been my worst enemy.

[Mr. Dazzle]

Overthinking has been my worst enemy.

Are you sure?

[Silly Car]

Thanks for the input everyone, it really is appreciated.

Design: I think the outer / smallest ring will be dispensed with so that will simply matters a lot

Keeping it square: In theory, assuming the slots are cut to the correct width and depth, it should be self supporting and hold true, but I suspect by the time 2/3rds of the uprights are screwed to the wall, the shelves will slot in and it'll be square enough

Hanging it off the wall: I think I am simply going to place screws through the bottom of the slots of the uprights therefore the fixings will be hidden by the shelves. I will likely make up a drilling template (rather than rely on a laser/sprit levels and tape whilst hanging off a ladder) to get the fixings in the right places

Slot depths: A quick play on sketchup this morning shows that I can cut the vast majority of slots in the uprights leaving 50mm of material to drill through for the fixings with the shelves having 50mm depth slots which reduces the margin for error considerably

Slot placement: I have designed in my head a jig which once the first slot is cut, allow me to reference each further slot from the previous one and keep the cuts perpendicular to the edge. I'll lash something up in sketchup later and share it.

I think that was everything for now!

[Mussels]

Give up now, buy something similar on Etsy and pretend you made it.

[Count Steer]

Give up now, buy something similar on Etsy and pretend you made it.

+ buy some dusters.

Look forward to seeing it though. I like the 'globe passing through the wall' idea - and I haven't seen anything like it.

[Silly Car]

Give up now, buy something similar on Etsy and pretend you made it.

+ buy some dusters.

Look forward to seeing it though. I like the 'globe passing through the wall' idea - and I haven't seen anything like it.

Funny you should mention Etsy, that's where the original idea came from and I thought, I can make that!

[Yambo]

I've been giving the project a bit more thought (and I need to give it even more) to come up with an easy way to square everything up and keep it all square and to easily position the slots for joining the pieces.

This way creates more waste than you might like but can be done cheaply and you might even have a use for the waste.

From your original drawing, you need 45 square pieces of scrap although you can probably get away with 15 - 20. These would be laid out with the cross pieces (the shelves) as spacers. They need to be secured to a suitable board with double sided tape maybe. With the shelves in the right position to produce the finished grid, or the verticals first for example, it'll be a simple matter to mark the slots and the centre of the slots. Fit the opposing shelves and mark them. Cut the slots and refit on the blocks for square. It could even be used for keeping square when gluing and clamping.

As for the waste square bits, I'm still thinking about that for future use but a few years ago I made some plywood coasters out of 4" square bits, decorated with Lichtenberg figures. I gave them away to a table top sale and some schmuck took them home.

[Silly Car]

I’ve also been giving it some thought.

In terms of cut list, omitting the smallest sections, I need a couple of sheets of MDF (assuming I can find 15mm locally otherwise I’ll have to scale up to 18mm)

Layout 1.png (21.18 KiB) Viewed 387 times

This could be cut down to a single sheet if I scale it down so the smallest sections are less than 1220mm in length.

I’ve also drawn up an indexing jig, the white section’s purpose is to engage in the previous slot and locate the next, the batten along the bottom sets the depth of slot which I reckon can be uniform for 95% of all slots with 4 smaller slots for the furthest extremities.

Slot jig.png (17.04 KiB) Viewed 387 times

I should only need to cut the first slot per group without referencing another slot, then use the first section as a template for other items the same size / orientation. Or use the mini jig to creat two full sized jigs / sections and then use those to cut the others.

[cheb]

With the caveat that I don't see MDF as being anything other than gussied up cardboard, why not make it out of real wood, preferably a hardwood?

[Silly Car]

With the caveat that I don't see MDF as being anything other than gussied up cardboard, why not make it out of real wood, preferably a hardwood?

Simply due to lack of familiarity with dealing with real wood for projects as previous cupboards / shelving has been painted.

I think this could look stunning in real wood so I’ll visit the timber yard and see how expensive hardwood is as an option.

The good news for other viewers is the radius is closer to 2.5m, so forming the curve with a radius jig just got a whole lot easier. I’ve no idea where sketchup was picking up the other dimension from unless I’d picked up the diameter as the reference…