Brake Bleeding Kits ?

[Yorick]

I've lost my trusty clear tubing, so need to buy some more and wondering if any of these bleeding kits are any good ?
Next year I'll be needing to change the master cylinder on the GSXR back to the standard one for the ITV (MOT) and it's a job I don't enjoy.

I've always been good at bleeding brakes but getting lazy


Any recommendations ?

[Skub]

Mityvac.

[Yorick]

Mityvac.

Any in particular ?

[Skub]

Mine is years old,it's a 6820. I doubt if it's still made,but there'll be a more up to date version available.

[mangocrazy]

My method of bleeding brakes after replacing a component requires 4 things:

1. A hypodermic syringe with a capacity of 100-200 ml
2. A meter of clear tubing that will fit tightly over the syringe nozzle
3. A master cylinder that has a bleed nipple (most modern bikes do), failing that a bleed nipple banjo bolt
4. A suitably sized receptacle for old brake fluid (an old plastic milk container is fine)

The method involves filling up the master cylinder reservoir and then attaching one end of the tubing to the caliper bleed nipple and the other to the syringe in its closed position. Then crack the bleed nipple open half a turn and pull back on the syringe handle, drawing brake fluid down from the master cylinder. Always make sure the reservoir has enough brake fluid in it. Continue until the brake fluid in the syringe is largely free of air. Then do the other caliper.

With both brake caliper bleed nipples tightened up, turn your attention to the master cylinder. Attach one end of the tubing to the master cylinder bleed nipple and the other to your receptacle. Then bleed off any air trapped at the top of the brake circuit. When you get to the stage that the brake feel is good, but still a bit spongey, it's probably best to just stop there, fill the reservoir to the correct level, refit the reservoir cover and tighten up all bleed nipples. Then get a strong elastic band (a section of bike inner tube is ideal), and wrap the elastic band good and tight round the brake lever and handle bar. Leave overnight and you should have a fully bled brake system.

[DefTrap]

I've got really basic stuff.
One of these really generic ones I tend to use on the car, you can get them in any of the motor factors, maybe even in the supermarket ...
https://www.craigmoreonline.ie/sealey-b ... nEQAvD_BwE

And this on the bike
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/200345014236

Both work perfectly

But really all you need is a tube, a jar and some fluid.

[Bowman]

My method of bleeding brakes after replacing a component requires 4 things:

1. A hypodermic syringe with a capacity of 100-200 ml
2. A meter of clear tubing that will fit tightly over the syringe nozzle
3. A master cylinder that has a bleed nipple (most modern bikes do), failing that a bleed nipple banjo bolt
4. A suitably sized receptacle for old brake fluid (an old plastic milk container is fine)

The method involves filling up the master cylinder reservoir and then attaching one end of the tubing to the caliper bleed nipple and the other to the syringe in its closed position. Then crack the bleed nipple open half a turn and pull back on the syringe handle, drawing brake fluid down from the master cylinder. Always make sure the reservoir has enough brake fluid in it. Continue until the brake fluid in the syringe is largely free of air. Then do the other caliper.

With both brake caliper bleed nipples tightened up, turn your attention to the master cylinder. Attach one end of the tubing to the master cylinder bleed nipple and the other to your receptacle. Then bleed off any air trapped at the top of the brake circuit. When you get to the stage that the brake feel is good, but still a bit spongey, it's probably best to just stop there, fill the reservoir to the correct level, refit the reservoir cover and tighten up all bleed nipples. Then get a strong elastic band (a section of bike inner tube is ideal), and wrap the elastic band good and tight round the brake lever and handle bar. Leave overnight and you should have a fully bled brake system.

That's almost exactly the way i do it. If I can't get a good seal between the nipple and the caliper body I use a wrap or two of ptfe on the threads. It's important not to use any on the mating surface of the nipple. With clean fluid it can be bled both ways like this.