Anyone have experience of the Whyte t-130?

[Numnut]

Anyone ever ridden a Whyte t-130 s. It looks like it would be complete overkill for what I'd need, but it definitely looks nice! I'd have to get myself to that twisted oaks place or thetford forrest I think, or at very least find a bumpier route to work.

https://propercycling.co.uk/products/20 ... 7-5-wheels

[weeksy]

Loads. I've owned several, @crust has one.

Great bikes

[Numnut]

Awesome, part of me is wondering if I'd actually miss having a motorbike - at least for a while. So I'm tempted to spend the summer on a posh mtb and see how that works for me.

Found a t-130 c-works which is completely overkill, but it's a lot more appealing that the 17 year old ninja with a dodgy service history!

[weeksy]

Think components and condition rather than frame material.

For example a set of Lyriks will save 600gr over Yari, a carbon frame only 500gr over Alu.

A set of fast tyres will save 800-1000gr over a set of DH rubber.

Of course if you get carbon frame, Lyriks and light tyres, it's lighter all round.

The link above looks good, but hard to see fully on phone

I like that Whyte have easy to get parts, bearings etc. They use normal bits and normal parts.

One thing though, Whytes are not light. They use mid spec parts, wheels, frames etc.

[weeksy]

https://www.pinkbike.com/buysell/3339361/

That for example would be light and fast, SC of that era size up small so it's closer to an M.

[crust]

As the bossman says I've got one.

I was riding a Lapierre Zesty and absolutely loving it when @weeksy bought his, the swine let me have a go and within 50 yds I was smitten, the Lapierre was consigned to hanging from the garage ceiling.
That was five years ago and I'm still loving it. There have been plenty of times when I've thought I was in over my head and just let the brakes off and it carries me through. I ride trail centres, long cross country rides, everything and it feels at home. It's a very reassuring comfy ride.

A really good all-rounder, I'd thoroughly recommend one.

[Numnut]

Think components and condition rather than frame material.

For example a set of Lyriks will save 600gr over Yari, a carbon frame only 500gr over Alu.

A set of fast tyres will save 800-1000gr over a set of DH rubber.

Of course if you get carbon frame, Lyriks and light tyres, it's lighter all round.

The link above looks good, but hard to see fully on phone

I like that Whyte have easy to get parts, bearings etc. They use normal bits and normal parts.

One thing though, Whytes are not light. They use mid spec parts, wheels, frames etc.

That’s good advice mate, thanks. It’s easy to look at shiny things and miss the detail!

I like the SC at the link you posted, I think at 5’10, I end up a M for most manufacturers full sus bikes, according to their recommendations anyway.

Here’s the link to the other one I’d found

https://webuycycle.co.uk/product/whyte- ... 17-medium/

Probably more than I’d want to spend though…

@crust cheers for that, it’s really helpful!

[weeksy]

Nice yeah. One minor thing, stuff like xx1 is crazy money to replace like for like if something breaks.

We could and can if you want debate bikes till the cows come home. But all used bikes come with a bit of luck in purchasing attached to them, sometimes good, sometimes bad.

https://www.chainreactioncycles.com/mob ... prod195583

Not as good in some ways, but new and warranty etc.

[weeksy]

https://www.paulscycles.co.uk/bikes/mou ... wood__9793

[weeksy]

https://www.leisurelakesbikes.com/bikes ... ge__375585

You can do ok new these days, especially at your level of experience and spanner knowledge etc on MTB.

Me, I'd buy the SC out of my picks, but that Marin is good value

[weeksy]

https://www.pinkbike.com/buysell/3281941/

Cracking buy

https://www.pinkbike.com/buysell/3353461/

https://www.pinkbike.com/buysell/3346941/

https://www.pinkbike.com/buysell/3329693/

[Numnut]

Cheers for all these - I'll have a little look and see how they compare.

It's learning all the terminology as well, I'm getting there, but slowly!

Expect more questions...I might even just transfer you some cash @weeksy and let you go shopping for me

[Flux]

I've got a T130c works I've had for 5 years now, it spends a lot of time hung in the garage as I ride the DH bike much more, but when I do take it out (Peak district usually) it's brilliant.

[Numnut]

I've got a T130c works I've had for 5 years now, it spends a lot of time hung in the garage as I ride the DH bike much more, but when I do take it out (Peak district usually) it's brilliant.

Awesome, good to know, thanks

[Mr Moofo]

For riding around Thetford forest, I really wouldn't worry too much about weight. Lighter will make it more spritely - and if you are Weeksy Jr and racing , it does become important. But hanging out with cool kids at Thetford / Swinley/ South Downs/ Cannock, something that doesn't fall apart is good.
As the Boss says buying 2nd hand comes with a few issues - that said "The Lockdown" meant people bought bikes, rode them 3 yards - and then went out and bought eeebs. So there could be bargains around.
As always the key to this is " What do you want it for?". About 9 months ago I decided I really wanted a Geometron. But then reality of being 62, okay down hills, slow uphills and a huge ability for falling off, suggested it was my head telling me I was 26. I would never use 180mm of rear travel!
There are very few bad bikes - unless you buy from the back of free magazines that come through your door. Just make sure that you buy something that is as new as you can afford, and well looked after / limited abuse. Once you start having to replace mullered cogs, chains and chain rings it gets expensive . A cheap set of wheels in 350 GBP, tyres 45 quid upwards.
There is a lot of cheap 27.5 stuff around as it has become less hip. But it will be perfectly good for what sort of riding you suggest you will be doing.

[Numnut]

@Mr Moofo - cheers for all that. Having spoken to a guy I work with, we're thinking a summer of local bike parks and thetford might be fun.
I've nearly bought the whyte t130 I linked to at the start a few times already (and nearly bought the giant weeksy recommend too), but haven't quite made up my mind yet. The whyte doesn't have the xd hub so I can always use lower spec cassettes and that sort of thing so it doesn't have to cost the earth.

[Mr Moofo]

Bike buying - like motorcycle buying, gets addictive.

I have always used Shimano cassettes rather than SRAM - dunno why but SRAM do seem to expensive fro what they are. "Cheap" cassettes are not necessarily bad - I have run a couple of SunRace for years ( they were cheap and big range - but Covid means they are now more expensive that the Shimano equivalent.

I have generally found that SLX stuff in Shimano is just as good as XT ( I have never bothered with XTR as I am not a racing snake). Money is better used in forks ( IMHO) and possible wheels.

People will give to micro analysis of why stuff is better - but once you have been riding a bike for 1hr you get used what you have. My only tip would be a) find a bike that "fits" b) avoid a press fit bottom bracket. They were designed by the Devil. c) ride with mates

[weeksy]

Thing is, you won't really know what you prefer, like, want until a year or two

For example I prefer Fox forks, SRAM shifters and SRAM brakes. Why, I just do. But plenty of people prefer the reverse.

[Mr Moofo]

Thing is, you won't really know what you prefer, like, want until a year or two

For example I prefer Fox forks, SRAM shifters and SRAM brakes. Why, I just do. But plenty of people prefer the reverse.

Indeed - it just preferences.
I am sure that Fox Forks are brilliant - the first pair of Talas I had were very, very good. But you had to send them to Fox to be serviced - hence it was a house point deducted from me.

I wonder how long it will be before the SRAM/ Shimano duopoly will be broken. I know SunRace etc are trying - but I never heard that much about other party derailleurs.

And the sad thing @Numnut , is what you want now will have changed next year
MTB riders, like motorbike riders, are seldom satisfied.

My last tip would be don't over bike yourself to start with. Look at something in the 130 - 140 front, 120-140 back travel - commonly now called "short travel" or "downcountry" bikes

[Numnut]

My only tip would be a) find a bike that "fits" b) avoid a press fit bottom bracket. They were designed by the Devil. c) ride with mates

That's why I'm looking at Whyte, my 603 fits me really well and just feels nice to ride - so I'm hoping that's carried through from hardtail to full-sus.

Thing is, you won't really know what you prefer, like, want until a year or two

For example I prefer Fox forks, SRAM shifters and SRAM brakes. Why, I just do. But plenty of people prefer the reverse.

Indeed - it just preferences.
I am sure that Fox Forks are brilliant - the first pair of Talas I had were very, very good. But you had to send them to Fox to be serviced - hence it was a house point deducted from me.

I wonder how long it will be before the SRAM/ Shimano duopoly will be broken. I know SunRace etc are trying - but I never heard that much about other party derailleurs.

And the sad thing @Numnut , is what you want now will have changed next year
MTB riders, like motorbike riders, are seldom satisfied.

My last tip would be don't over bike yourself to start with. Look at something in the 130 - 140 front, 120-140 back travel - commonly now called "short travel" or "downcountry" bikes

So far I've worked out I prefer not riding on the road and that my rockshox judy forks on the 603 are so so much better than the rattly horrible suntour ones that came with it. I've definitely got an itch that needs scratching with mtb though. I'm just waiting for the place selling the t130 to answer a few questions and if it's all good I'll spend the summer/autumn on that and see if I miss motorbikes.