Buying used and servicing

[Numnut]

As I’m currently looking for a cheap ish bike to replace the recently departed 790, I’m finding a lot of my options are 30k+ miles.

I seem to obsess about certain things in the service history - valve clearances, suspension servicing, plugs - things that cost me money that I can’t do myself really.

What do you guys look for in the service history or do you not mind buying without any history?

[weeksy]

I generally these days but new to nearly new. But mostly at your budget I'd buy in condition rather than that. Things like tyres, chain and sprocket etc. Stuff that'll need replacing if knackered.

[weeksy]

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/334453345120 ... SwmJZijnjV

[weeksy]

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/265713754067 ... Swyc5ik7zg

[weeksy]

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/165512561557 ... SwzhBil5TY

[Mussels]

I bought from a dealer in the condition they did a valve check, a couple of weeks lateri found all the fairing bolts were seized. I don't trust service history much and assume jobs like that haven't been done.
So I'd rather buy one where major work is outstanding and a suitably reduced price.

[Cousin Jack]

I have put 30k+ on 2 different bikes. Both were absolutely fine when I sold them. Minor nicks and dings of course, but engine and gearbox were fine. I would look for regular oil changes, and just general condition, don't worry about miles.

[Skub]

It depends on the make and model. Jap bikes are generally very reliable now. My 10R valves were still in spec at 34k. I was going to check again at 40k.
Other marques may be more fussy on servicing.

[Le_Fromage_Grande]

The most important thing is that the oil is changed according to the manufacturers schedule, on modern bikes valve clearances don't change much because modern valves and heads are very good.

As for suspension servicing, most rear shocks are sealed units and fork oil is easy to change ( which makes you wonder why no one does )

[Numnut]

Cheers all, maybe I’ll be less concerned about valves then

I’m still considering the 60k miles 954 blade, it has new discs, pads, tyres, fork service and fresh oil and filter…

@weeksy that first link you posted - I messaged him and haven’t yet got a reply…

[Le_Fromage_Grande]

I had a 1991 CB400 Super Four that had done 65000 miles, I doubt if any of them were gentle miles, it ran superbly and didn't use any oil, I doubt if the valve cover had ever been off, so a 60,000 mile Fireblade should be fine, it'll have spent most of it's time being ridden at 50% of the revs it can do.

[dern]

Over the last couple of years I've checked the valve clearances on a 20k mile cbr1000rr, a 20k mile ktm 1190 adv and a 30k mile zxr750. They all needed adjustment by changing some shims, virtually all on the exhaust side. It's definitely not something I would assume is ok.

I quite like getting a service history but if I haven't got one I'll just go over all the jobs, starting with oil, until I know where I stand.

[Tricky]

Cheers all, maybe I’ll be less concerned about valves then

I’m still considering the 60k miles 954 blade, it has new discs, pads, tyres, fork service and fresh oil and filter…

@weeksy that first link you posted - I messaged him and haven’t yet got a reply…

Thar blue B1H does look nice- top-end money as advertised I would say. but it's likely as nice a one as you'll find on the face of it and things are of course usually negotiable and if you do go for a ZX6, it's defo worth hunting out an A1P or B1H- the 636 has significantly more mid-range than the 599s

But if you do fancy a Blade, my brother Kev @2xtwins has a decent white one that has had very little use over recent years and he's been talking about selling for yonks but hasn't got around to it- I can't remember exactly how many miles it has up, but it's a lot less than 60k- have a feeling in 20k-odd and from what you've said I reckon it'll be in budget
Anyway, if he hasn't messaged you already give either him or me a shout if potentially of interest and I'm sure we can sort pictures/details etc- he lives on the Hants/Surrey borders, just up the road from Blackbushe airport

[Numnut]

Thar blue B1H does look nice- top-end money as advertised I would say. but it's likely as nice a one as you'll find on the face of it and things are of course usually negotiable and if you do go for a ZX6, it's defo worth hunting out an A1P or B1H- the 636 has significantly more mid-range than the 599s

But if you do fancy a Blade, my brother Kev @2xtwins has a decent white one that has had very little use over recent years and he's been talking about selling for yonks but hasn't got around to it- I can't remember exactly how many miles it has up, but it's a lot less than 60k- have a feeling in 20k-odd and from what you've said I reckon it'll be in budget
Anyway, if he hasn't messaged you already give either him or me a shout if potentially of interest and I'm sure we can sort pictures/details etc- he lives on the Hants/Surrey borders, just up the road from Blackbushe airport

@Tricky @2xtwins, yes please - send some details over would definitely be interested.

I’d messaged the owner of that blue zx6 on Fb, my guess is he’s got sick and tired of all the ‘give you £500’ messages! It seems a decent b1h can be anything up to £4k now, I think that’s a bit optimistic tbh!

[2xtwins]

Thar blue B1H does look nice- top-end money as advertised I would say. but it's likely as nice a one as you'll find on the face of it and things are of course usually negotiable and if you do go for a ZX6, it's defo worth hunting out an A1P or B1H- the 636 has significantly more mid-range than the 599s

But if you do fancy a Blade, my brother Kev @2xtwins has a decent white one that has had very little use over recent years and he's been talking about selling for yonks but hasn't got around to it- I can't remember exactly how many miles it has up, but it's a lot less than 60k- have a feeling in 20k-odd and from what you've said I reckon it'll be in budget
Anyway, if he hasn't messaged you already give either him or me a shout if potentially of interest and I'm sure we can sort pictures/details etc- he lives on the Hants/Surrey borders, just up the road from Blackbushe airport

@Tricky @2xtwins, yes please - send some details over would definitely be interested.

I’d messaged the owner of that blue zx6 on Fb, my guess is he’s got sick and tired of all the ‘give you £500’ messages! It seems a decent b1h can be anything up to £4k now, I think that’s a bit optimistic tbh!

Have PM'd you

Kev

[Count Steer]

The last two s/h bikes I've bought were both from people who were 'known quantities' ie someone from VD and a workmate of a friend (based on the friend's recommendation). I think if I were to buy an eBay offering I'd find something local and pay the local independent m/c maintenance shop to give it a once over. (He handled the selling of 2 of my bikes (which he'd serviced) and saved me the delight of dealing with the tyre kickers and stupid offers...well worth the % of the sale).

[Mr. Dazzle]

I have had a couple of nearly new full dealer history vehicles which had expensive failures (fortunately under warranty for the really expensive one) and a couple which were total zero maintenance sheds that refused to die.

It's a lottery IME.

Obviously bits hanging off and clouds of black smoke are probably an indication. However I'd also agree with Iccy that a full history only guarantees that they've opened the book and stamped it.

[The Spin Doctor]

My main worry about bikes with shiny bodywork and low miles is "are they genuine miles"?

Over the years I've been to see:

- what was obviously a crashed bike rebuilt with new panels - it was being sold as a 10k miles bike, one look under the fairing revealed a motor with (my guess from owning an identical model) 50-60k on it. That was easy to spot, the downpipes were corroded and filthy, the black engine paint was flaking, various fasteners except the fairing ones were rusty, the shock paint was flaking and the wear and tear on the front wheel didn't match the rear.

- a track bike put back in its OE bodywork - the engine was immaculate, the bodywork was immaculate and it was again being sold as low mileage (and possibly was if you don't count being thrashed round a track) but there were little tell-tale signs. The seat and rider foot pegs were brand new with barely any wear, but the gear shift rubber was well-worn. There were also signs of tyre changes on the wheel rim and although the tank was clean, there was the odd little scuff plus knee grips.

And frankly, some of my bikes when they had 70-80 thousand work miles on them would probably have passed as one with 30k on it, if you didn't spot things like the footrest rubbers being worn away.

If the advertising is fair and the price is reasonable, fair enough. But when the dealer (first one) and owner (second) are trying to pass them off as low-mileage machines, it really is caveat emptor.

And I rarely sold a bike, I usually rode them till they stopped.

[Le_Fromage_Grande]

Over the last couple of years I've checked the valve clearances on a 20k mile cbr1000rr, a 20k mile ktm 1190 adv and a 30k mile zxr750. They all needed adjustment by changing some shims, virtually all on the exhaust side. It's definitely not something I would assume is ok.

I quite like getting a service history but if I haven't got one I'll just go over all the jobs, starting with oil, until I know where I stand.

The exhaust valves get hotter so they're more likely to deform and the clearances close up, if you run an open exhaust without rejetting the valves get even hotter because the mixture is lean, and the valve clearances need doing sooner.

[The Spin Doctor]

Over the last couple of years I've checked the valve clearances on a 20k mile cbr1000rr, a 20k mile ktm 1190 adv and a 30k mile zxr750. They all needed adjustment by changing some shims, virtually all on the exhaust side. It's definitely not something I would assume is ok.

I quite like getting a service history but if I haven't got one I'll just go over all the jobs, starting with oil, until I know where I stand.

The exhaust valves get hotter so they're more likely to deform and the clearances close up, if you run an open exhaust without rejetting the valves get even hotter because the mixture is lean, and the valve clearances need doing sooner.

Good reason for leaving things be. Having bought from new and stuck with the standard exhaust, I checked the clearances a couple of times on the Hornet on its way to 75k miles and thought "close enough", and when I finally got the top end serviced, only two shims needed changing. Should be good to way over 100k.