After taking everything apart, checking and cleaning connections as well as cleaning the air filter and some crap from the air box I put everything back together again and had to leave it a couple of days due to redecorating the living room.
Took it out for a decent test run today and was pleasantly surprised to find the 5-6000 rev brick wall has gone and the bike now revs fairly well and pulls as it should. It still has a flat spot about 8-9000 revs but will pull through it but it’s been like that for ages and it’s probably carbs that need a proper clear out.
My guess is that whilst we were pulling things about with the initial battery problem something has worked/been knocked loose and by taking it apart and putting it back together again has resolved it
I hate it when that happens as there's always a little nagging doubt that at some point it will happen again, in the middle of nowhere and I won't have a clue how to fix it
'07 Griso 1100 (for sale), '94 Sprint 900, the scabbiest Himalayan in the country
I took an R6 to bits once, I left a pipe disconnected from the carbs by accident, I assume it was a vac pipe that made the slides lift. It did the same hitting a brick wall at a specific load. Pipe reconnected and all was good.
Ditchfinder wrote: ↑Wed May 25, 2022 3:40 pm
I hate it when that happens as there's always a little nagging doubt that at some point it will happen again, in the middle of nowhere and I won't have a clue how to fix it
Bigyin wrote: ↑Wed May 25, 2022 3:34 pm
After taking everything apart, checking and cleaning connections as well as cleaning the air filter and some crap from the air box I put everything back together again and had to leave it a couple of days due to redecorating the living room.
Took it out for a decent test run today and was pleasantly surprised to find the 5-6000 rev brick wall has gone and the bike now revs fairly well and pulls as it should. It still has a flat spot about 8-9000 revs but will pull through it but it’s been like that for ages and it’s probably carbs that need a proper clear out.
My guess is that whilst we were pulling things about with the initial battery problem something has worked/been knocked loose and by taking it apart and putting it back together again has resolved it
The water circuit that warms the carbs on Fazers is notorious for clogging up might be worth cleaning that out, I had a combination of that and water in fuel that made mine not rev cleanly.
Skub wrote: ↑Sun May 22, 2022 9:35 pm
Is the Frazer carbs or FI ?
If it's carbs,I recall a fault I had with one of my ZZR11s. It too would rev out when in neutral,but splutter at 7k revs on the road. I had that thing apart a million times. Turned out it was a loose needle on one of the carbs. I only spotted it because it had a shiny section worn on the body of the needle.
Worth checking if you are in there.
Its a varbed one mate and already has a splutter about 7-8000 revs but if you pushed through it would rev out, Probably some shit in the main jet that needs cleaning out. The latest issue feels completely different like its hit a brick wall at 5-6000 . Got a mate who has one same as mine who i can spend wome time at his and get the carbs apart as well. They also have an issue with carb rubbers decaying so will check that too
it's not carb-icing is it?
(ah - didn't know the Fazer had heated carbs.... but still)
Rockburner wrote: ↑Wed May 25, 2022 5:07 pm
it's not carb-icing is it?
(ah - didn't know the Fazer had heated carbs.... but still)
Nah, it was almost 20 degrees and I know what carb icing feels like as my ZX6R G2 was prone to it, mainly in thick fog on winter days
From what I can remember certain Kwakers were prone to suffering it in almost all weathers
Early C models were prone to it, they revised it for the later 9r’s which solves the problems. There is a little filter that if you clean it regularly the problem rarely shows it’s head.
When I commuted on my 98 Blade (back before I learned to drive), it used to get carb icing on really cold mornings. Made the throttle really really fluffy.
Nah, it was almost 20 degrees and I know what carb icing feels like as my ZX6R G2 was prone to it, mainly in thick fog on winter days
From what I can remember certain Kwakers were prone to suffering it in almost all weathers
Early C models were prone to it, they revised it for the later 9r’s which solves the problems. There is a little filter that if you clean it regularly the problem rarely shows it’s head.
Mine used to misbehave on nasty,misty,wet days. Cold yes,but not icy cold.
As Wull said,keep the tiny filter clean and all will be good.
I'd still be checking as I find self curing faults are normally a temporary arrangement. It does sound like an earth problem to me. To drop straight out like that is rarely fuel related. On an older bike, I'd be checking proud the headstock and ignition switch for broken wires and of course the main earth wire. They often used to corrode whilst still looking okay. I've been amazed at ones that have broken to nothing when pulled at yet the bike was running fine hours before!
As iansoady says, you can get fully charged batteries that will drop dramatically under load. Back in the day that was the only way to properly check a battery, fully charge it then put the load tester on and watch if it dropped by individual cell amounts.
