Triumph T140V
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Triumph T140V
I thought I'd start a thread about my T140. It's a 1976 oil in frame model 750cc pushrod twin with about 50 bhp (on a good day), it's rattly, vibey and not really happy above 80mph, yet it's probably my favourite of the 4 bikes I have
It's been on a few DGRs as well as holding its own against more modern Triumphs on 150+ mile ride outs with the TOMCC
But as is the way with old Brit twins, there's a fair amount of "involvement" required to keep them running optimally. The latest issue is (yet another) oil leak from the pushrod tubes. Having replaced the O rings that sit inside the chrome tubes previously to limited effect, I have now taken the next step which involved driving the tappet guide blocks from the barrel and replace the O ring that sits inside. First off this involves buying a new tool- a tappet guide block drift:
Before the process of head and barrel removal (tank, pipes, carbs, and rocker boxes need removing first)
So far all looks good inside and the bottom end feels good. The tappet blocks came out without too much of a fight and the cam followers look good (along with the pushrods they are kept in their original orientation and position by pushing them through a piece of card. More to follow as I nail it back together at the weekend
It's been on a few DGRs as well as holding its own against more modern Triumphs on 150+ mile ride outs with the TOMCC
But as is the way with old Brit twins, there's a fair amount of "involvement" required to keep them running optimally. The latest issue is (yet another) oil leak from the pushrod tubes. Having replaced the O rings that sit inside the chrome tubes previously to limited effect, I have now taken the next step which involved driving the tappet guide blocks from the barrel and replace the O ring that sits inside. First off this involves buying a new tool- a tappet guide block drift:
Before the process of head and barrel removal (tank, pipes, carbs, and rocker boxes need removing first)
So far all looks good inside and the bottom end feels good. The tappet blocks came out without too much of a fight and the cam followers look good (along with the pushrods they are kept in their original orientation and position by pushing them through a piece of card. More to follow as I nail it back together at the weekend
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Re: Triumph T140V
Some people find those pancake air filters restrictive. Might not matter if you go slow.
- weeksy
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Re: Triumph T140V
Sure no problem- will let you know when it's all up together and we can meet at Premier again sometime
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Re: Triumph T140V
I was going to warn Weeksy about the right hand gear change... but it's on the left!
Are you sure that's a proper British bike
Are you sure that's a proper British bike
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Re: Triumph T140V
Well it is leaking oil.....KungFooBob wrote: ↑Wed Aug 05, 2020 2:07 pm I was going to warn Weeksy about the right hand gear change... but it's on the left!
Are you sure that's a proper British bike
They switched to left hand shift in 1975 to comply with US regulations
- weeksy
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Re: Triumph T140V
phew !!! Not sure i'd have had the balls to try it !KungFooBob wrote: ↑Wed Aug 05, 2020 2:07 pm I was going to warn Weeksy about the right hand gear change... but it's on the left!
Are you sure that's a proper British bike
- derek badger
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Re: Triumph T140V
If there was ever a more graphical example of why people should wear full face lids I'd be surprised.
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Re: Triumph T140V
Yeah, that nose is too short to split the wind.derek badger wrote: ↑Wed Aug 05, 2020 2:46 pm If there was ever a more graphical example of why people should wear full face lids I'd be surprised.
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Re: Triumph T140V
derek badger wrote: ↑Wed Aug 05, 2020 2:46 pm If there was ever a more graphical example of why people should wear full face lids I'd be surprised.
Is that an actual saying???
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Re: Triumph T140V
On my Bonnie the gears are on the right and they go the other way.KungFooBob wrote: ↑Wed Aug 05, 2020 2:07 pm I was going to warn Weeksy about the right hand gear change... but it's on the left!
Are you sure that's a proper British bike
It's also currently sans head due to a valve guide failure. Nidge - where do you buy all your seals etc?
Last edited by Mr. Dazzle on Wed Aug 05, 2020 3:14 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Triumph T140V
There are loads really- I like LP Williams or Norman Hyde, both really knowledgeable and carry good amounts of stock. Also Burton Bike Bits and Shropshire Classic Motorcycles, Feked and Grin Triumph are good. There's a Chap called Ian Blake on the classic Facebook pages who seems to have a lot of Reg Allen's new old stock - I've just bought a genuine seat off him at good moneyMr. Dazzle wrote: ↑Wed Aug 05, 2020 3:10 pmOn my Bonnie the gears are on the right and they go the other way.KungFooBob wrote: ↑Wed Aug 05, 2020 2:07 pm I was going to warn Weeksy about the right hand gear change... but it's on the left!
Are you sure that's a proper British bike
It's also currently sans head due to a valve guide failure. Nidge - where do you buy all your seals etc?
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Re: Triumph T140V
Strictly speaking, it’s fluid dynamics.Nidge wrote: ↑Wed Aug 05, 2020 2:59 pmderek badger wrote: ↑Wed Aug 05, 2020 2:46 pm If there was ever a more graphical example of why people should wear full face lids I'd be surprised.Is that an actual saying???
- Skub
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Re: Triumph T140V
Cool as,young Nidge.
"Be kind to past versions of yourself that didn't know what you know now."
Walt Whitman
https://soundcloud.com/skub1955
Walt Whitman
https://soundcloud.com/skub1955
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Re: Triumph T140V
Nice!
Makes me think I should drag some of Dads bikes out again.
Makes me think I should drag some of Dads bikes out again.
non quod, sed quomodo
- KungFooBob
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Re: Triumph T140V
As far as usable classics go, I reckon it's just about perfect.
Front disc, so there's actually a chance it will stop.
Left hand gear change, so you don't break your toes trying to change up a gear on the rear brake.
Old enough to be tax and MOT exempt...and a black numberplate!
How much maintenance would one need if you did 3k a year for pleasure?
Front disc, so there's actually a chance it will stop.
Left hand gear change, so you don't break your toes trying to change up a gear on the rear brake.
Old enough to be tax and MOT exempt...and a black numberplate!
How much maintenance would one need if you did 3k a year for pleasure?
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Re: Triumph T140V
To be fair, in my so far limited experience the Triumph front drum isn't actually too bad. It's the skinny front tyre which lets go first:p
Right hand gear change isn't an issue for me, the bike is so different to everything else I ride I never forget I'm on the old girl.
I don't think I've yet had a journey where something didn't need fixing/adjusting/whatever.
Right hand gear change isn't an issue for me, the bike is so different to everything else I ride I never forget I'm on the old girl.
I don't think I've yet had a journey where something didn't need fixing/adjusting/whatever.
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Re: Triumph T140V
To be honest, the merest hint of rain and I wish I had drum brakes.. Triumph seem to have managed to find a special chrome for their discs which not only has all the properties of Teflon in the wet but some how allows rust to form on the surface... (the one thing the plating is meant to do is stop rust...) .
As far as maintenance IME these classics respond better to being used regularly. Of course it helps to start with a good one and you have to remember at one point in its life it was a performance bike and treated as such, at another point it was a £500 shitter and treated as such, and at some point it was left in a garage/shed/garden etc so there’s usually a history of neglect to redress
Once I had sorted 40 years of neglect and ham fistedness mines been pretty good (current oil leak notwithstanding). To do 3000 miles a year I’d be changing the “tea strainer “ oil filter (mine has an aftermarket external filter), and be prepared to do an annual oil change, valve clearances and regular general tightening of nuts, checking for leaks etc. Electrics are another area that potentially will require attention. I’ve replaced the points with a Boyer electronic ignition, and instead of zener diode I have a Boyer powerbox reg/rectifier but 50 year old wires and connectors can be troublesome initially, but these days I am genuinely surprised if something needs attention after a 100 mile ride out, but of course these bikes come from an era where preventative maintenance was expected
As far as maintenance IME these classics respond better to being used regularly. Of course it helps to start with a good one and you have to remember at one point in its life it was a performance bike and treated as such, at another point it was a £500 shitter and treated as such, and at some point it was left in a garage/shed/garden etc so there’s usually a history of neglect to redress
Once I had sorted 40 years of neglect and ham fistedness mines been pretty good (current oil leak notwithstanding). To do 3000 miles a year I’d be changing the “tea strainer “ oil filter (mine has an aftermarket external filter), and be prepared to do an annual oil change, valve clearances and regular general tightening of nuts, checking for leaks etc. Electrics are another area that potentially will require attention. I’ve replaced the points with a Boyer electronic ignition, and instead of zener diode I have a Boyer powerbox reg/rectifier but 50 year old wires and connectors can be troublesome initially, but these days I am genuinely surprised if something needs attention after a 100 mile ride out, but of course these bikes come from an era where preventative maintenance was expected