Slipping clutch
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Slipping clutch
The clutch on my XL200 slips occasionally when I give it a big handfull.
The cable is as slack as it will go so I guess some of the clutch needs replacing.
Any idea if I might get away with just replacing the friction plates? And how hard is it to do, Is it as simple as drain the oil, take the side cover off, undo the bolts on the retaining plate and replace the clutch plates?
The bike's done about 6000 miles FWIW. And is getting on for 40 years old.
The cable is as slack as it will go so I guess some of the clutch needs replacing.
Any idea if I might get away with just replacing the friction plates? And how hard is it to do, Is it as simple as drain the oil, take the side cover off, undo the bolts on the retaining plate and replace the clutch plates?
The bike's done about 6000 miles FWIW. And is getting on for 40 years old.
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Re: Slipping clutch
Lean it against something, no need to drain all the oil (unless you want to or it needs a change).
Probably only needs friction plates, but you should inspect the steels and replace if necessary.
It's pretty much as you describe process wise.
Probably only needs friction plates, but you should inspect the steels and replace if necessary.
It's pretty much as you describe process wise.
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Re: Slipping clutch
Pretty easy to do, you'll need a gasket for the clutch cover and friction plates.
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Re: Slipping clutch
Ok, great, thank you.
How hard will the cover be to remove once unbolted? I assume it'll need hitting with a soft hammer or prying off with a screwdriver.
How hard will the cover be to remove once unbolted? I assume it'll need hitting with a soft hammer or prying off with a screwdriver.
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Re: Slipping clutch
Getting the screws out will be the trickiest bit, if they're cross head screws get the proper JIS screwdriver to undo them, you might need an impact driver, make sure all the screws are out before attempting to get the cover off, and remember to take the kick start off. Getting the cover off should be a case of tapping it with a rubber or hide mallet to break the seal, be very careful prying with a screwdriver.
If you're in any doubt take it to a bike shop, it should only be about an hours labour.
If you're still over Peterborough way I might be able to recommend someone - or have a word with some of the people you used to work with at PB, they'll know someone.
If you're in any doubt take it to a bike shop, it should only be about an hours labour.
If you're still over Peterborough way I might be able to recommend someone - or have a word with some of the people you used to work with at PB, they'll know someone.
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Re: Slipping clutch
It's just the same as on an R series Beemer, as discussed on another thread recently
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Re: Slipping clutch
How much, my Z1170 needs the clutch plates and springs replacing, I'm looking at £100 tops and a couple of hours work (at most)
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Re: Slipping clutch
That's the downside of shaft drives I guess. I watched some of a video of a bloke changed the clutch in a bmw and had to strip so much of the bike down it was unbelievable. I just lean mine against a wall and stick some new plates in when I need to.
Eek...
Eek...
Re: Slipping clutch
As post above, end up having to dismantle virtually the whole bloody bikeHow much, my Z1170 needs the clutch plates and springs replacing, I'm looking at £100 tops and a couple of hours work (at most)
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Re: Slipping clutch
Is the gearbox constant mesh like a "normal" bike gearbox?
Just curious how it all works.
Just curious how it all works.
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Re: Slipping clutch
No idea, don't know anything about gearboxes. I assumed that they were the same but just with a single plate dry clutch between the gearbox and the engine, just like a car.
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Re: Slipping clutch
Looks like Weeksy's bike cleaning regime. 'Just getting into the nooks and crannies'.
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Re: Slipping clutch
I'd be very very surprised if it wasn't. In fact I'd be surprised if the gearbox in a shaft beemer wasn't the same as that in a chain bike in all but details. Even car boxes are extremely similar to bike ones, the only significant difference is the lack/presence of synchromesh and the number of dogs in the errrr....dog clutches. Even the stick shift in a car is a detail, you can convert a normal car gearbox to a bike style sequential just by changing the shift mechanism.Le_Fromage_Grande wrote: ↑Wed Nov 24, 2021 2:56 pm Is the gearbox constant mesh like a "normal" bike gearbox?
Just curious how it all works.
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Re: Slipping clutch
Ah the joys of longitudinal cranks!
And yes, constant mesh, otherwise you'd need a gear stick!
And yes, constant mesh, otherwise you'd need a gear stick!
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Re: Slipping clutch
This is a weird "myth" that seems all pervasive in biking circles. Cars with a regular gearstick are constant mesh too. You have to go back a long way (or be looking at niche stuff) to find a mainstream road vehcile that's NOT constant mesh.
Edit: Just realised that the presence of synchronmesh in cars implies they're not constant mesh. If they're constant mesh what are you synching right? However the synchromesh synchs the dogs between the gears and selector hubs, not the gears themselves. The gears always remain meshed together....hence the name constant mesh.
Its totally possible to clutchless shift in a car just like on a bike. I advise learning how in someone else's car though
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Re: Slipping clutch
That bike looks too clean (ie new-ish) to be needing a clutch replacement. Odd ...Count Steer wrote: ↑Wed Nov 24, 2021 3:57 pmLooks like Weeksy's bike cleaning regime. 'Just getting into the nooks and crannies'.
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Re: Slipping clutch
Yeah synchromesh is an addition to constant mesh, not a replacement for it.Mr. Dazzle wrote: ↑Wed Nov 24, 2021 4:46 pmThis is a weird "myth" that seems all pervasive in biking circles. Cars with a regular gearstick are constant mesh too. You have to go back a long way (or be looking at niche stuff) to find a mainstream road vehcile that's NOT constant mesh.
Edit seeing your edit: it is synchronising the dog clutches that lock individual pinions to the mainshaft. The pinions are constantly meshed.
The old British cars (before about mid-1960s) with synchromesh only on second, third and top, had a sliding pinion first gear, so first wasn’t constant mesh in those cases.
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