Gregor wrote: ↑Thu Sep 30, 2021 7:57 pm
I’ve heard getting to the spark plugs on the new 700 Tenere is a lengthy job.... not what you want on an “adventure” bike.
Pity - I quite like them. I have a soft spot for them ever since I did some overlanding on a XTZ660 version.
KungFooBob wrote: ↑Fri Oct 01, 2021 8:17 am
May years ago I had a JDM Mitsubishi FTO, it had a transversely mounted 2l V6.
To get to the rear bank of plugs you had to take the intake manifold off.
So Mr Bishi decided to put cheap plugs that lasted 30k miles in the front bank and costly iridium's that lasted 60k in the rear bank.
...and there's loads of old skool rotary pumped diesel cars out there that have never had the 4th glowplug changed
I had an X-Type Jaguar that had exactly the same problem with plugs and intake manifolds. I've also had a couple of Pug 405s and a Citroen Xantia so I'm quite familiar with the no. 1 cylinder glowplug. They start fine with 3 good plugs though, so it's not a problem
I've had Triumphs, a Ducati and an MV with a SSSA, they all use different sized sockets for the rear wheel nut so I've got a couple of 3/4 drive sockets in my toolbox that I'll never use again unless I weld the hole up and use them as tea mugs.
While we're talking about Ducatis, accessing the battery on my Monster 1100 required the removal of the tank and airbox. I never did get round to fitting the Optimate lead to it
I looked under the bonnet of mk1 Ford Escort 1300 x-flow recently. It's so weird to see so much room under a bonnet with everything readily accessible!
Taipan wrote: ↑Mon Oct 04, 2021 3:40 pm
I looked under the bonnet of mk1 Ford Escort 1300 x-flow recently. It's so weird to see so much room under a bonnet with everything readily accessible!
You should see under the bonnet on my SL... it's designed to take a 6l V12, my V6 looks lost. I can get me head between the radiator and the front of the engine!
Taipan wrote: ↑Mon Oct 04, 2021 3:40 pm
I looked under the bonnet of mk1 Ford Escort 1300 x-flow recently. It's so weird to see so much room under a bonnet with everything readily accessible!
Ford put the same engine in the Mk3 Capri, it looked like you could have climbed in there and still walked round 3 sides of the engine.
Just going back to the OP are you *sure* the rear spindle nut needs to be loosened to adjust the chain?
I don't have a Duke but on the Triumphs I've owned you only loosen a smaller 15mm bolt and turn an eccentric adjuster.
Tarmacsurfer wrote: ↑Mon Oct 04, 2021 8:54 pm
Just going back to the OP are you *sure* the rear spindle nut needs to be loosened to adjust the chain?
I don't have a Duke but on the Triumphs I've owned you only loosen a smaller 15mm bolt and turn an eccentric adjuster.
Yep - no electric adjuster, or variable adjuster/sprocket ala BMW etc. Iirc only the bigger MTS have single side swingarms which may accomodate that.
Hawkman wrote: ↑Thu Sep 30, 2021 5:11 pm
Yes, I know that every bike make has it's foibles.
My latest discovery is that Ducati would very much like you to get your chain adjusted via the dealers. In order to adjust the chain on a 950 Multistrada, you need a 36mm 12 point socket and a torque wrench so you can tighten it up to a high setting (156Nm iirc - I've seen comments in another thread).
Anyone got any other joys of owning a bike that's made you wonder what the engineers were thinking? Any other particular joys I need to look forward to with Bologna's finest engineering?
I bought the double sided nut that loosens both front and rear on the bigger Multi, it lives under the rear seat of the bike just in case. Was quite handy to have in Norway when i needed an unexpected rear tyre change
As said the 1200 is 220 nm but i just do it VF Tight using a 2 foot long bar and the nut. To get it off i have a 5 foot scaffold pole i put over the breaker bar. My independent place does them up to 180 nm as thats what the race teams use and they dont come loose
Check the manual for settings as well as the bigger bike needs the bike set in a certain rider and luggage mode to check the correct tension
I know you are not that far from me so happy to pop over and help with any daft or not questions
Bigyin wrote: ↑Tue Oct 05, 2021 11:42 pm
My independent place does them up to 180 nm as thats what the race teams use and they dont come loose
They also undo/tighten them after every couple of hours of use, if not more frequently! The 'extra' is for a bit of margin "in the real world" I'd bet. Doing a nut up tighter is a legitimate way of improving it's resistance to coming loose due to things like vibration (which might have a significant time component) and you can quantify the improvement.
I just do them up tight using a 2ft breaker bar like Bigyin. The nut is castellated and there's a circlip to stop it loosening so I don't worry about it coming off
Gregor wrote: ↑Thu Sep 30, 2021 7:57 pm
I’ve heard getting to the spark plugs on the new 700 Tenere is a lengthy job.... not what you want on an “adventure” bike.
Sounds like a fucking mission, let alone an adventure.
Druid wrote: ↑Wed Oct 06, 2021 1:10 pm
I just do them up tight using a 2ft breaker bar like Bigyin. The nut is castellated and there's a circlip to stop it loosening so I don't worry about it coming off
As i managed to find a cut in the rear tyre i had to get the rear nut off the Multistrada this afternoon. Bit of a bastard as you can see there is shit loads of mileage still on the tyre
Cue 2 foot breaker bar plus a 5 foot scaffold pole over the top. Missus sat on bike with rear brake applied and came off no problem at all. Popped the new tyre on and missus sat on bike applying brake and 2 foot bar done to F Tight and then the circlip added. I cover the nut in masking tape as it helps the socket grip better
You can tell i have known @weeksy too long as i have even started cleaning the bits of the bike i take off that nobody ever sees.....the hidden side of the exhaust in this case and the inner side of the swingarm
