E10 in an old bike

[Asian Boss]

I panic-filled the XL with E10 a few days back.

It's a 1984 bike so not compatible. Any idea how quickly I need to get it out before it banjaxes something?

I've been using it to try and run the level down but it uses so little it's never going to work.

[KungFooBob]

It's going to be utterly fucked by now.

I'll give £250 for it, but I'm cutting my own throat.

[KungFooBob]

Or you could put some of this (or similar) in it.

https://www.toolstation.com/b3c-ethanol ... lsrc=aw.ds

[David]

I agree with kfb..but it's only worth £125 including delivery...i will be in on friday.

[Skub]

Never mind that E10 bollox,just gan it up on t' back wheel.

[Bigyin]

As i understand it the problem is either continued use of E10 or leaving it to stand with E10 in it which will have an effect on a plastic tank or carb rubbers.

I doubt a single tank will fuck it but 50 quid and i'll take it off your hands to remove the stress and worry for you

[Screwdriver]

I rather suspect the bigger problem will be chainsaws, strimmers and other petrol driven garden paraphernalia. All plastic tanks, none of the buggers ever want to start anyway after six months tucked away in the shed.

It's a deliberate act of sabotage! </tinfoilhat>

[DefTrap]

My chainsaw has had e10 in it for ages. Bikes too.

I tend to think there's a lot of people with shit machinery and terrible maintenance schedules just looking for excuses.

[cheb]

And for all the amount domestic garden machinery uses it's no great expense to use Aspen petrol or petroil.

[Asian Boss]

Thanks chaps. Maybe I shouldn't papper mesen.

It really uses so little, the level's still up in the filler neck.

I think using E5 super unleaded could also be an answer (to a problem which may not exist...!).

[Screwdriver]

My chainsaw has had e10 in it for ages. Bikes too.

I tend to think there's a lot of people with shit machinery and terrible maintenance schedules just looking for excuses.

Outnumbered by miserable old humourless assholes I'll wager.

[MrLongbeard]

terrible maintenance schedules

????
You mean chucking it in the back of the shed until next year isn't a good thing?
Ah well, it's worked so far for the Hayter so I'll keep the schedule going

[wull]

Going by the fuel Shenanigans at the moment the £10 fuel is worth around £367 so ignore the offers and double the price

[Potter]

You can put a fuel stabiliser in it, I have one made by Wurth, it's a lead replacement with a stabiliser for fuel with ethanol in.
That should take care of separation issues, but I don't know if it neutralises the affect of alcohol on plastics, seals, etc - apparently some do.

I forgot to put it in my lads bike and after some time the carb was blocked with foul smelling green slime, I had to run it through the ultrasonic cleaner twice and the brass jets still look corroded.

First thing that came up on google - https://www.sta-bil.co.uk/blogs/news/e1 ... ur-vehicle

[Le_Fromage_Grande]

Fuel separation and the following water absorption causes the green slime, the bigger problem is the ethanol damaging rubber parts, some it shrinks, some it grows, some harden, some dissolve, but if you use it regularly so the fuel doesn't sit, it seems to be less of a problem.

My 31 year old FZ750 gets used regularly and doesn't seem to have any problems, my Kawasaki I rarely use and I have loads of carb problems.

[Potter]

Fuel separation and the following water absorption causes the green slime, the bigger problem is the ethanol damaging rubber parts, some it shrinks, some it grows, some harden, some dissolve, but if you use it regularly so the fuel doesn't sit, it seems to be less of a problem.

I had this on plant and machinery, some oils can attack certain metals/plastics, a very notable one was food grade oil in a compressor that destroyed it's seals and contaminated food, I've also seen it literally eat copper/brass.

There was no way around it other than an additive or different oil, frequent use (or not) made no difference because it was a chemical process and if the two things were in contact then it happened regardless.
The advert I linked to appears to say that it stops the ethanol attacking components, I don't know it it's true.

It's hard to know what the truth is, I was in a room with a BASF expert who was telling a manufacturer to his face that their oil would destroy components in the manufacturers compressor and the VP of the manufacturer still sat there disagreeing. They continued to market and sell that compressor with that oil in, culminating in legal action down the line.

[Mr. Dazzle]

You wouldn't believe how many tedious arguments (or maybe you would) there are in OEMs and the like about tiny little details like that. It's the difference between a proper OEM product and something made in your shed.

As for ethanol - the auld Triumph has been upgraded with ethanol resistant seals and floats throughout. We shall see if they actually work! I think it might be a moot point anyway, 'cause the fancy high octane fuel she needs on account of her high compression pistons doens't actually have ethanol in AFAIK.

[Tomcat]

There was a big post on FB from a chemical engineer about E10. Short version, just use it as normal. Fuel injected bikes can use it OK but older ones with carbs might find it rotting seals if used over a long period. Just burn it as normal and revert to E5 (which ain't great but it's better). Fuel stabiliser does nothing as the ethanol is still present and will absorb water if kept in the bike for long periods. For storage drain it down and put a few litres of alkylene fuel (such as Aspen) in it.